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2.6 head gasket; any hints or tips?
Topic Started: Fri Nov 6, 2009 8:03 pm (149 Views)
mindingthepotole
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Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
[ *  *  * ]
doing the head gasket on the car, and i is coming on slowly cos of the weather..

just wondering if there are any hints or tips for doing this as this is my first go on a 2.6.

anything to look out for?
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twopointsix
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[ *  * ]
Mark,

If you haven't already registered on the mbclub UK forum, suggest you do so. When you have, log on, go to the "How to" section and there is a step by step guide, with photos, on rebuilding the M103 cylinder head. Good luck with the new car.
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Richy190E
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Sales Rep
[ *  *  * ]
They are surprisingly pleasant to do :)
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mindingthepotole
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Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
[ *  *  * ]
is it this one guys??

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/howto/63184-howto-change-head-gasket-12v-3ltr-m103.html
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merc190uk
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Steve

no idea not a member :lol:
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twopointsix
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is it this one guys??

Yes. It's a three litre head being worked on, but it's the same M013 engine as the 2.6...just er...bigger! :D
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Richy190E
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One tip i would give you is get a bungee cord with hooks on to hold the pulley up to the bonnet hook, cut the heads off the old head bolts and deburr and cut slots into the tops. One you have cleaned the gasket surfaces and fitted the dowels drop the gasket onto them and approach the car with the timing chain void facing the car, rest the head on a piece of sponge, block of wood etc on the slam panel and unhook the bungee from the bonnet, keeping enough tension on the pulley to stop it dropping and pass it through the void and rehook it. Now you can hold the head and turn it through 180 degrees and allign it square on the dowels without the gasket moving or the head slipping and damaging anything. Its a heavy lump to be lining up at arms length gently.

You can remove the home made dowels using a flathead screwdriver. You only need to make 2 really but I tend to do 4. The bungee i found was easier than string, cable ties etc.
Edited by Richy190E, Fri Nov 6, 2009 11:20 pm.
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mindingthepotole
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Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
[ *  *  * ]
having trouble with the chain tensioner...

i have removed the plug and teh spring, but i can not withdraw the piston from the tensioner....

this is giveing me a very large headach with regards t fitting the cam sprocket...

can anyone please give me some advice on how to get the tensioner moving.
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Richy190E
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it pushes out mate, you may need to tap it a little. whatever you do dont push the piston back, it must come out in the direction of the chain.

I think last time I put a 1/4" extension bar down it and tapped it on the bench. Or I may have gripped the body in the vice, fitted the spring and scrrewed the cap on, either way should work buddy.

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Richy190E
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you will need the body of the tensioner off the engine, its one way only. once the chain is in position you fit the piston spring and cap and it auto tensions on a ratchet mechanism of grooves and circlip.
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mindingthepotole
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Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
[ *  *  * ]
tis ok. i done it... i found out that there was a threaded washer within the block..... undid it, fitted te sprocket and put it back in....

one question....

the threaded washer that is removed after the spring within the tensioner...... when it is put back in, how tight does it have to go.... seams to be going in further than it came out.....

i dont want to do any damage, or over tighten the chain...

advice asap would be great...
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mindingthepotole
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Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
[ *  *  * ]
tis ok... all done and sorted now....lol..... was just having a gay day
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mindingthepotole
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Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
[ *  *  * ]
right... the engine is back together now.....

but trying to start it is proving to be a right bugger....

gone through 3 batterys..... it ready to start now the fuel has come through.... but just not enough juice in the batterys........

on charge now, and hopefully i can get it running in a couple of hours.
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