More Help For My 2.6! Please

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More Help For My 2.6! Please; Bad feul economy
Topic Started: Sun Nov 1, 2009 1:37 am (215 Views)
NZ_190	Sun Nov 1, 2009 1:37 am Post #1
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Hi, This is my second thread I have started on the forum so here goes. I am loving my first car and first mercedes to pieces it is the best first car I could have ever wished to have. Best of all it makes peoples heads turn and my friends envyous. I bought the car knowing it not to be flawless as it is 20 years old of coarse so im not suprised that I am having a few minor ones which I'd like to address before they become seriously major. Since buying the car I have had to buy a new battery for the car as the one in there was well and truely past it. That set me back $200 dollars. :(. Other than that: - a really good clean - the addition of a towbar and wiring for it which was easier than expected. - a new arieal motor which was sadly not a automatic one like the one that was in the car. It was free so cannot complain too much. - a new headunit - and a failed attempt at fixing the wiring for the rear drivers side electric wind which goes down but not up (which I found out the hard way) My main concerns at the moment is the extremely poor feul economy. I have put $40 of high octane in the car after the light came on for the first time. $40 gave me approximately 25 litres which is half a tank. On that I have managed 130km before the light came on again. I thought it myt be a incorrect reading on the feul gauge on the dash but after checking what little was in the tank this was quickly eliminated. After looking on wikipedia I found that this particular motor should be giving an approximate feul economy of 10 litres per 100km. At the moment it is doing more like 20litres per 100km which is horrendous. Since owning the car it always seems to be running very rich as a heavy petrol smell is always present from the exhaust. Any suggestions????? My other concern is the front left wheel position inside the arch. It seems oddly forward from being in the centre of the arch and has signs of rubbing inside the arch. I was told by the previous owner that he bought a second set of rims for the car which are currently on it as the last pair rubbed. With the smaller wheels currently on the car the wheel is only 2 cm from clearing the front gaurd and looking at the drivers side it seems fine. I am wondering if it is a worn lower arm on top of worn bushes which has allowed the wheel to come forward as it has. Or are these the uncorrectable wounds of a poorly repaired acciedent? Any suggestions?????? Edited by NZ_190, Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:03 am.



Stempies	Sun Nov 1, 2009 1:47 am Post #2
Hot Lips Posts: 3,305 Group: Members Member #2,380 Joined: March 6, 2008	From new, the town driving consumption of a 2.6 was 12.5l per 100km! See below! Your problem could just be worn injectors. clogged air filter or just needs a good service!!



NZ_190	Sun Nov 1, 2009 1:51 am Post #3
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Stempies Sun Nov 1, 2009 1:47 am From new, the town driving consumption of a 2.6 was 12.5l per 100km! See below! Your problem could just be worn injectors. clogged air filter or just needs a good service!! Hi thanks for the really quick reply. The car has a near new air filter in it already so I dont think its that. I might have to buy new injectors then:( Any idea how much they would be?



Stempies	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:01 am Post #4
Hot Lips Posts: 3,305 Group: Members Member #2,380 Joined: March 6, 2008	Only having a Carb one it's not something i've taken much notice of, but i know some members found them for as little as �11.50 each on ebay!!



stwat	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:03 am Post #5
Moderator Posts: 12,411 Group: Moderator Member #28 Joined: November 11, 2005	Get the car on an emisions machine and have the mixture set correctly. You will get much better MPG. You can easily weaken the mixture yourself but it's much better to do it whilst hooked up to a machine. In other words, get it tuned. Simply fitting new injectors wont cure a rich mixture. That wheel is sat way to far forward as you say Has it been in an accident? Edited by stwat, Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:05 am.



NZ_190	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:11 am Post #6
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Yeah I think I might have to get it professionally tuned. Just for the record though where can I iadjust the misture myself on the motor I have? As with the wheel I am not sure as there is no service history prior to the last owner although he has kept a very detailed one and by the looks of things allot has already been replaced in the engine bay so hopefully not too much more can go wrong for me.



Richy190E	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:13 am Post #7
Sales Rep Posts: 1,822 Group: Members Member #1,387 Joined: June 9, 2007	i think an emissions check and tune and a 4 wheel alignment check is the order of the day. look for evidence of wishbone replacement, it may be a case of adjustment.



NZ_190	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:14 am Post #8
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Thanks for the quick responces!!!! I have a reciept for wheel alignment in the glove box which was done not too long ago. This is why I'm so puzzled......



stwat	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:26 am Post #9
Moderator Posts: 12,411 Group: Moderator Member #28 Joined: November 11, 2005	To adjust the fuel mixture, as you look at the air filter housing, on the top you will see a hole in the middle of it, that is where the access to the mixture adjustment is. Its best to take off the air filter lid to get proper access to it. Get a 4mm(or is it 5mm?)allen key and press down into the hole as the adjustment screw is spring loaded. You should feel resistance when you try to turn the allen key. To weaken the mixture turn it anti clockwise. You only need to turn it a few mm at a time. If you turn it too much it can mess up the whole running of the engine and fuel injection system. These KE Jet systems are a right pain in the arse when not working correctly and you can very easily make matters a whole lot worse if you mess with them to much.



NZ_190	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:42 am Post #10
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Thanks very much stwat



Richy190E	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:43 am Post #11
Sales Rep Posts: 1,822 Group: Members Member #1,387 Joined: June 9, 2007	wheel allignment may just have been a tracking adjustment. your problem looks castor related. im unsure if knackered strut top mounts would have this effect. Edited by Richy190E, Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:43 am.



NZ_190	Sun Nov 1, 2009 2:46 am Post #12
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Thanks ill definately look into it. I dont think its a WOF or in the UK MOT problem as it just got one before buying the car.



sportline_stu	Sun Nov 1, 2009 8:46 am Post #13
Member Posts: 1,008 Group: Members Member #2,447 Joined: March 23, 2008	Hi there I am also a 2.6 owner and mine had the same issue with the front nearside wheel placing and rubbing when I purchased it! The front end was low and new front springs were needed Not long after I had the car I sent it to a local garage/tyre supplier for a full four wheel alignment as I was concerned about the 'castor' adjustment on that wheel. This affects the way the wheel sits to the front or back of the car. It did need adjusting but I was also told the lower suspension wishbone was bent and needed replacing. This was replaced and the full 4 wheel alignment done - the wheel position improved significantly.......... BUT......... 1. I'm still convinced the wheel is still a few mm further forward than the other side but I get no rubbing. 2. The wishbone was replaced with a generic part supplied by the wheel/tyre company that had the car for the wheel alignment to be completed. It was not a MB part and on advice from the garage I replaced both sides as they had difficulty removing the rusted part on the other side. I now (after only 9 months) have a knocking noise from the front wheel area and am concerned the part fitted has started to fail and plan to get this looked at. If this is the case I intend to get some kind of replacement and fit uprated sportline parts. So if you do replace parts than consider sticking with MB as Ive been told the quality and fabrication of the part is better including the bushes which last significantly longer and wear better. These are things I did not know at the time and I just needed the car doing while the garage had it and I could be without it for a day or two. Since this I have found some paint peel on the front end of the car indicating some spray work being done in that area. I am now thinking that front corner may have been bumped and some of the suspension bent and put out of line/shape? The front suspension is due for a tidy up next year with new bits including top-mounts and probably new arms with uprated bushes. Ukmerctechie (forum member and Mercedes mechanic) took my car for a spin recently and picked up on the knocking and a that the front end was a little loose. As for the fuel economy! How do you drive the car is my first question!? I would first of all fill the tank from empty and fill it to the brim - as much as you can. The top half of the petrol tank seems to last longer. Weird but true. On a full tank my gauge does not move for ages then when it reaches the halfway mark it then reaches empty quite quick. If you have a 2.6 then the chances are you will have a bigger fuel tank as well sorry. High octane fuel is more expensive here (I assume you mean 98 or 98 ON?). To be honest I do not notice any real difference on the 2.6 from standard 95 RON. This is cheaper!!! Stu.



aemt	Sun Nov 1, 2009 8:58 am Post #14
Member Posts: 2,904 Group: Members Member #3,171 Joined: September 1, 2008	To be honest your fuel economy is not that far out. It was 7 miles per litre when new and you are say you are getting five now. As already suggested I would do a proper check be filling the tank to the top, running for 150 mile or so then topping up again and comparing miles done to litres added. Some injector cleaner might help. It also could be down to driving style. I might have missed it, is it manual or auto? Auto will be more thirsty in urban driving



NZ_190	Sun Nov 1, 2009 9:06 am Post #15
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Hi thanks for the advice stu. When I bought the car it had just under half a tank in it and that didnt ssem to last me very long. That 40 dollars of 95 i put in was my first fill up. And yes Because it was the first week I did want to see what it could do but in saying this I only heavily accelerated maybe 5-6 times as I had a feeling I would be seeing the gas station sooner than I'd like. I did pull the lining out of the boot when fitting the towbar and the tank had a sticker on it sayin that it was a 55 litre tank so it sort of led me to the conclusion that the car was using more than it should be. I would love to put a full tank of gas in but as I am a student who is still at college and currently not working this will only be something I can only dream of LOL (but I might be able to make the stretch). In the mean time it will be 20 to 40 dollars at a time. After my exams I will get the front suspension looked at by a specialist and see what he recommends and how much money he wants to rob from me. Ideally if I could get hold of the parts required and attempt it myself would be a great. What do you think about adjusting the mixture levels as I am still convinced that it is running rich or is this normal to some extent. As for the other question the car is auto I would have liked it to be manual but it was the best condition 190 I had seen in my price range so couldn't pass it over. Currently I am only driving around town locally, mostly to and from school. I am planning on doing a 3 hour road trip in a month or so so thatl give me some better milage hopefully. Oh one other thing my feul gauge does seem a bit retarded at times as depending on what slop I strart / stop the car. When I drive up or down a hilly road the gauge seems to drop a little and then when I get back on the flat it comes back up. When the tank got low it took quite some time before the light permanently stayed on. I think my gauge is misleading ca you confirm this on these cars. Oh and one more thing, This is kind of minor but my rev counter also seems pretty bouncy could this be a voltage problem to the cluster? Regards Adrian Edited by NZ_190, Sun Nov 1, 2009 9:36 am.



jeremy	Sun Nov 1, 2009 9:52 am Post #16
Member Posts: 6,567 Group: Members Member #2,018 Joined: December 9, 2007	Ah !!! 2.6's should have a 70 litre tank ..... Jeremy



sportline_stu	Sun Nov 1, 2009 11:00 am Post #17
Member Posts: 1,008 Group: Members Member #2,447 Joined: March 23, 2008	Auto's are great! Keep the box in 'E' and drop drop to 3 or 2 when you need it. There are little dots on the speedometer indicating the maximum speed before change is required. I think the 3 dots indicating you should get out of third gear are around 90mph (its cold and wet and Im not leaving the house to check sorry!) Who needs a manual cossie!? As for the adjustment I really think a specialist should check the car is at MB specs. Please don't just fiddle with things else you could get it all out of sync and then your buggered. I did and then I was! It needed someone with the right Bosch kit to adjust it properly. Just remember you didnt buy the car for its economy so maybe accept its a bit heavy on juice. Everything else it offers more than compensates. Stu.



stwat	Sun Nov 1, 2009 3:41 pm Post #18
Moderator Posts: 12,411 Group: Moderator Member #28 Joined: November 11, 2005	jeremy Sun Nov 1, 2009 9:52 am Ah !!! 2.6's should have a 70 litre tank ..... Jeremy Not all, mine is an early one with a 55l tank.



NZ_190	Tue Nov 3, 2009 4:24 am Post #19
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Yeah mines an 89 so that will explain the smaller tank. Thanks for all the interest and suggestions I will get on to them asap. Now for an added thing to get on to I now have a very small but very annoying problem with my feul gauge. IT DOESN'T WORK AT ALL NOW ARRGH Last night I was installing a new speakers in the car. This included a sub of coarse. And in order to put the sub in I removed the knee panel on the passenger side / the floor lining in the passenger well / the back seat entirely and the left hand side boot lining in the boot. Are there any areas in which I could have knocked off the cable by accident? I cannot be sure that I caused the problem either as the tank has been on empty for a couple of days. Edited by NZ_190, Tue Nov 3, 2009 6:52 am.



stwat	Tue Nov 3, 2009 11:19 pm Post #20
Moderator Posts: 12,411 Group: Moderator Member #28 Joined: November 11, 2005	The tank is in the boot so you may have knocked the wire from the fuel sender by mistake.



NZ_190	Wed Nov 4, 2009 3:59 am Post #21
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Thanks mate, Yeah I thoguht it might have been that but I had a look and gave it a wobble seemed fine, Strangley on the way home from school today the feul gauge seemed to come up a bit to just under a quater. This isnt what it should be saying but still it works a bit. Haha I think its a faulty gauge. YES / NO????



NZ_190	Wed Nov 4, 2009 4:01 am Post #22
Newbie Posts: 30 Group: Members Member #4,768 Joined: October 20, 2009	Any clues as to why my tacho bounces wildly when I rev the motor??? Or is this normal



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