Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
MERCEDES190.CO.UK homepage
Welcome to the Mercedes 190 forum

Welcome to the Mercedes 190 owners forum, the place to be for all owners and lovers of the Mercedes 190E, 190 and 190D cars. Including Cosworth (2.3 16v and 2.5 16v), EVO 1 and EVO 2 models. Modified and concourse, track cars and daily drivers, all are welcome.

This free UK based club was started back in November 2005 to serve the w201 community and now has over 4000 members from all around the world and 340,000 + posts.

The members welcome you and encourage you to stay a while and have a look around. We offer you friendly chat and access to some very useful information as well as tutorials with photos and videos for many common repair and maintenance jobs. Whatever your needs there is a good chance you will be able to find what your looking for. Such as our Mercedes 190 buyers guide

Sign up to gain access to all areas including for sale / classified areas and country wide meetings and events. Many forum features and sections are only available once you sign up.

Join our us at mercedes190.co.uk!

If you're already a member please log in to your account:

Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Need serious suggestions for brake upgrade; Thinking Non-Merc and cheap consumables
Topic Started: Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:54 am (346 Views)
Martrider
Member Avatar
Longest build time in history?
[ *  *  * ]
Hi all,

I have been doing some research and there are obviously a million different brake applications out there.

I was wondering if, during non-merc ownership that anybody had come across a particularly good brake set up (calipers, ideally 4-pot) that could be retro fitted onto 16v hubs.

I could go down the Porsche route as there seems to be a lot on sale for reasonable money, (even 4-pots from the rear of a GT3 for example) but how much would it involve to fit other than fabbing some mounting brackets and finding a set of discs to match.

Am I under the right understanding that I have two ways i could go about matching these? Either by going for custom bells and floating discs (of which there are loads to choose from) - or - just trying to match a set of Merc discs (which I could theoretically get EBC TGD versions or the like).

I am ideally looking for a set-up of four pots on the front, but i think my plan for the W124 320-TE rear discs and calipers on the back will be enough.

I just don't want to have to spend £400 every time I need to change the front discs and pads every time I go to a couple of track days.

So far I have been looking at Mitsu Evo brakes from a few models, and STI/WRX but I am not convinced that they will be much of an upgrade. Plus discs and pads are very expensive in comparison.

Also looked at some of the Nissan stuff from GTI-Rs and various Skylines but again seems to be uber expensive.

There must be a set that I haven't thought of.

P.S, There are some very nice Audi S3, TVR Sagaris Alcon and Aston Martin Vanquish brakes on Ebay right now! But far too expensive.

Or......


Should i just go for a set of Hi-Spec, Compbrake or something similar and bite the bullet?

Argh!!!!

(Not that i have the money at the moment, i just need to know what to be keeping an eye out for).
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Nath_XPR
Member Avatar
Nordschleife Taxi
[ *  * ]
Why not go for the EVO2 4 pot set up?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
MBidiot
MBidiot
[ *  * ]
It's hard to beat MB factory set up for reliability.

I did see a good local German car shop that is offering cross-drilled brembo rotors.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
RobertE
Member Avatar
Serial victim...
[ *  *  *  *  *  * ]
I'd go the route of fitting brakes from the heaviest car which will accept the 190 hubs - big W124, R129, 107, in there somewhere.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
mazza
Member Avatar
Member
[ *  * ]
Martrider
Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:54 am
Should i just go for a set of Hi-Spec, Compbrake or something similar and bite the bullet?

Argh!!!!

(Not that i have the money at the moment, i just need to know what to be keeping an eye out for).
Hi


off the shelve kits are still very expensive but you do get pretty much everything you need, check MOVIT calipers! last time I checked these guys had the best prices for w201 kit, also check TAROX. These are not really much help when you're a bit skint though....

check under the track section (brakes) there's a thread about a company in Germany that makes the brackets to accept brembo calipers.

if you dont mind steel calipers, then go as sugested by Robert, get yourself 4 pot calipers from the cars listed and you will have plenty of stoping power.

mazza
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Big Ben
Member Avatar
Member
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Martrider
Member Avatar
Longest build time in history?
[ *  *  * ]
I like the red anchor, maybe i could put one of those Brembo calipers stickers on it and it would look spot on! lmao lmao lmao

So which of the above Merc items, ie, the W14 and R129 et al that we already know about are four pots? None that i am currently aware of which is the problem.

And whoever had the whole Evo II setup, that's fine if that's what you want, but the replacement parts prices are too expensive if it's going to be a predominantly a track use car.

MOVIT are very nice units, and lots of the M-Sport BM guys use them but again, cost is too high. I don't want to compromise on braking, but our cars just don't need THAT much spent on them to stop well. It's all about finding a good set-up that works well together.

If i would afford to go down the Wilwood direction I would, and in fact may still do at some stage. Dependant on how lairy my engine build becomes....

I'm going to have to go for cams as well now aren't i really or i will just upset myself later.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Chris Martens
Member Avatar
Member
[ *  * ]
what's wrong on the EVO II setup in light alloy (Brembo) or cast iron (ATE)?

It fits out of the box.
Parts are cheap (compared to "real" Brembos or real racing brakes from ap or willwood or whatever) and widely available (ATE, Jurid, Pagid, EBC...)
It's reliable.
And it stops. :)

regards,
Christian
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Martrider
Member Avatar
Longest build time in history?
[ *  *  * ]
Nothing is wrong and it's a good idea, but rare, and expensive when they do come up because there are so many of us after them, and sellers know what they can get away with selling them for as they must be enthusiasts like us! lol

Not seen you about in a while, nice to have you back chris, hope all is well, any news?
(My thread, i can go off topic if i want to! lol)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Nath_XPR
Member Avatar
Nordschleife Taxi
[ *  * ]
Martrider
Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:28 pm
And whoever had the whole Evo II setup, that's fine if that's what you want, but the replacement parts prices are too expensive if it's going to be a predominantly a track use car.
They are no more expensive for replacement parts than any other 4 pots.

If you want 280+mm disks and 4 pot callipers, then you have to be realistic and be prepared to pay that price.

If not just upgrade the valver 2 pots, Jeremy's set up is strong and stands up to track use.

What power and weight are you looking to achieve with your track car?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy
Member Avatar
Member
[ *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Mart ,

If you are not doing any track work , then the standard set-up is brilliant , our brakes (in good condition) are amongst the very best anywhere .

If you are going to have repeated use , then you will need to upgrade the pads , with a heat reistant backing , and upgrade the fluid for one with a higher temperature band .

But the mechanical side of M-B brakes are peerless .

If you are still not satisfied , then upgrade to a W124 set-up and use the servo / cylinder too . I have done this on my 3.6 , but have yet to drive it .
Although the brakes on my W124 AMG Coupe are fantastic , I am hoping that a similar set-up on a 300kg lighter car that is my 3.6 will be amazing .

Jeremy


Edit , I have been told that braided brake lines give you a better "feel" at the pedal
Edited by jeremy, Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:01 am.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Martrider
Member Avatar
Longest build time in history?
[ *  *  * ]
Sorry, i should have mentioned what i already have.

I have goodridge brakelines,
16v calipers with rebuild kits (although not rebuilt yet)
16v Black Diamond (i think) discs - don't like them but they were free.
Will have Red Stuffs when it's all together.

But, I also have a set of W124 300E TE calipers from Mr_S which I am yet to collect from him.
Which I will rebuild and give them a try, and then sell the complete set which i do not prefer as much. (If they will even make a difference).

I also have new EBC handbrake shoes to go in at some stage but the rear sub is out at the moment and i've not even stripped it down yet.

So that's where i am, but i was thinking i might as well go 4-pot to start with.

So does anybody know which exact Merc models from the W124 and R129 etc have four pots apart from the Evo II W201.

Thank you guys, when we work it out i'll get quotes for eveything and post up all the options and prices to help everyone.

Edit;
Power I am looking for is approx 230bhp at the fly from rebuilt engine, medium cams, bike carbs, Megajolt and exhaust. But it's the torque I want more as it's better for the way I drive.

Weight, not sure yet.
Still deciding on two options and may evolve anyway.
1) Will loose a lot of weight from engine bay, and at the track will remove the rear seats (Will probably remove rear squab for most of the time and thinly carpet the back). Light wheels, mine are very light already but will be getting some ultra light wheels for track tyres (I know that's unsprung.)
The shell has windey windows and no sunroof and mechanical front 16v seats at the moment - may be replaced with buckets. Any ideas on weight?

2) Do all of that plus more and put a cage, remove all carpeting etc, no idea. Probably adding all the weight removed, by adding back in a cage. We'll see. Not decided yet.

Will probably keep it as a road/track car first and then take it further when I get a more adult daily driver.
Edited by Martrider, Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:30 am.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
JM Motorsport
Member Avatar
Member
[ *  * ]
Johan used stock 16v discs with the steel 4-pots from the w124 together with Ferodo DS2500 pads and 5.1 fluid. Very good bite, can take alot of hammering without fading.Its good reliable set up, you can of course go up to the w124 300mm disc, thats what im doing. Johans car is pushing at least 250bhp and he was among the top 10 fastest that day. It hasnt been lightened more the rear bench removed and sparco bucket seat instead of the stock Recaro. So its around 1300kg i would think

Fading brakes are often the result of people not knowing how to use their brakes at track-days. For example last thursday there was a man in a AMG SL 55, with 6-pots and and 350mm discs or something. One would think that is a pretty decent setup even on a heavy car like the SL55, but he managed to destroy his brakes in less then 15 min of driving. His calipers turned from silver to yellow, and his pads actually melted and was all over his rotors. Problem was that he had very little track-day experience, and had his foot on the brake pedal for too long periods at the time. Learn your brake points, hit it hard a get off asap and apply throttle to speed out of the corner.

For example the 89 DTM Evos used 4-pots and 330/280mm rotors. Many group N Evos running in the german endurance series VLN at the Nürburgring. Uses the stock EVO setup, you are not allowed to alter it, stock discs or aftermarket in the same dimensions and Pagid RS19 or 29s pads. They last at least for 4 hours of racing at one of the toughest tracks in the world.

Also remember that larger discs and calipers weigh more to, so you are adding to the unpsrung weight when moving up in size. You will also need bigger wheels which are of course heavier, also adding to the unsprung weight.

Edited by JM Motorsport, Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:58 pm.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jeremy
Member Avatar
Member
[ *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Well put Mikael .

& dont forget , if you can take some weight off , the standard size brakes work even better .

Jeremy
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bolide
Bolide
[ *  * ]
E320 estate calipers- I think they're 4-pots. Pads are cheap as chips

I must say I don't quite understand the logic behind most brake upgrades. If you can lock the wheels with the existing brakes then the only benefit of bigger discs is a larger area to dissipate heat which will mean more stops before everything overheats

I can't see anyone (apart from Jeremy?) getting their brakes that hot unless they're rallying or driving a circuit like the Nurburgring. On most UK circuits you only use the brakes 3-4 times a lap

Bigger discs & different calipers won't necessarily give you more bite. If you want more bite the you have to look at harder pads, master cylinder sizes & etc. And look at pad compound that will work at higher temperatures

The point about unsprung weight is very important

Nick Froome
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Brakes · Next Topic »
Add Reply