Oil change, auto gearbox

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Oil change, auto gearbox; What did I do wrong?
Topic Started: Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:10 pm (206 Views)
Bre	Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:10 pm Post #1
Learning Posts: 27 Group: Members Member #4,337 Joined: June 29, 2009	Today I changed(tried) the oil in my auto gearbox. I red that 6L of oil goes in it. I draind the oil, replaced the filter. The amount of drained of is onli about 3L ???!!!!! I knew that it was misin a litle, but where is the other 3L of oil. So I started to fill with new oil but it goes in obout 3.3 L of oil. I do not anderstand now where did I do wrong???!!!! What is the thing with the 6L of oil. My transmition is 722.420 My car is an 190E, 1.8, 1992 make I`m new to 190, I bought it two weeks ago. Sorry for my bad Engilsh Edited by Bre, Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:42 pm.



rhysmangatmotorsport	Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:44 pm Post #2
Mangatmotorsport Posts: 1,768 Group: Members Member #2,941 Joined: July 9, 2008	Bre, ur right Ive done loads of auto box oil changes and only 3 ltr comes out, they say 6 ltrs if your going to drain completely from the torq converter. You just need to drain the gearbox sump, remove the sump, change the slot in filter and replace the the rubber gasket on sump.. Robbie...



Bre	Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:50 pm Post #3
Learning Posts: 27 Group: Members Member #4,337 Joined: June 29, 2009	Is it a problem that I did not drain the torq converter ???( I even do not know how to drain that, where is the drain ) I mean is the torq converter isolated from the part of the gearbox where I put in the new oil, or they will mix in?? ( the new and the old oil ) Edited by Bre, Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:54 pm.



Richy190E	Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:58 pm Post #4
Sales Rep Posts: 1,832 Group: Members Member #1,387 Joined: June 9, 2007	The drain plug for the torque convertor is accessed through the hole in the bellhousing, you have to turn the engine until it becomes visible, it is removed with either a 5mm or 6mm allen bit. Once drained you have to refit the plug, fill the gearbox with an initial 4 litres of oil, start the car and cycle it through all the gears pausing briefly, and add fluid bit by bit until the level becomes good. Adding more than 4 litres will result in a puddle on the floor.



Richy190E	Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:59 pm Post #5
Sales Rep Posts: 1,832 Group: Members Member #1,387 Joined: June 9, 2007	Oh and the torque convertor is filled with oil from the gearbox via a shaft so yes the old and new will mix.



Bre	Sat Jul 11, 2009 9:03 pm Post #6
Learning Posts: 27 Group: Members Member #4,337 Joined: June 29, 2009	Richy190E Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:58 pm The drain plug for the torque convertor is accessed through the hole in the bellhousing, you have to turn the engine until it becomes visible, it is removed with either a 5mm or 6mm allen bit. Once drained you have to refit the plug, fill the gearbox with an initial 4 litres of oil, start the car and cycle it through all the gears pausing briefly, and add fluid bit by bit until the level becomes good. Adding more than 4 litres will result in a puddle on the floor. Thank for the explanation, So now I have a mix of the new and the old oil in my gearbox. Is it OK? Or is it better to drain everyting out again, and now put in realy 6L of new oil???



Richy190E	Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:12 pm Post #7
Sales Rep Posts: 1,832 Group: Members Member #1,387 Joined: June 9, 2007	Yes you have a mix i'm afraid, if it were me I would drop the lot and start a fresh. Autoboxes are so dependent on good quality, clean ATF that I would see it as a false economy to leave half of the old stuff in and potentially shave life off the gearbox. Thats just my opinion, others may have a different view. Its your car and your hard earned cash at the end of the day. Any other advice/questions dont hesitate to ask.



Bre	Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:07 am Post #8
Learning Posts: 27 Group: Members Member #4,337 Joined: June 29, 2009	Richy190E Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:12 pm Yes you have a mix i'm afraid, if it were me I would drop the lot and start a fresh. Autoboxes are so dependent on good quality, clean ATF that I would see it as a false economy to leave half of the old stuff in and potentially shave life off the gearbox. Thats just my opinion, others may have a different view. Its your car and your hard earned cash at the end of the day. Any other advice/questions dont hesitate to ask. Richy190E, thanks a lot for you answers



ThankYouLord	Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:07 am Post #9
Member Posts: 1,519 Group: Members Member #108 Joined: December 17, 2005	Bre - when you are underneath the car and looking through the inspection hole to see the drain plug on the torque converter, use a pry bar or big screwdriver to turn the engine via the torque converter - there are little dimples in it to lock the end of a pry bar into and turn it around so the drain plug is at the bottom. When you have it in front of you, put a 5 mm allen key in but not a traditional type, you must use a socket mounted one. Put it in and locate it properly, then fit an extension bar onto it and Hit it with a heavy lump hammer, several times, on the end of the extension bar. This is to break the rust that will be around the threads and shock the rust loose. Then put the ratchet on and start undoing it. If you don't do this, it might not come out and it might round out. This also helps to seat the allen key bit properly. The above was taught to me by a Mercedes Expert Technician and works very well. How you would deal with a rounded out drain plug i, would dread to think! Also it might be a good idea to buy a new one from mercedes, to refit afterwards and making next time much easier, they can't be very expensive and to know the head is good next time must be worth a few quid ! Very best of luck and well done for doing it yourself Phil Edited by ThankYouLord, Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:09 am.



Bre	Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:09 pm Post #10
Learning Posts: 27 Group: Members Member #4,337 Joined: June 29, 2009	ThankYouLord Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:07 am Bre - when you are underneath the car and looking through the inspection hole to see the drain plug on the torque converter, use a pry bar or big screwdriver to turn the engine via the torque converter - there are little dimples in it to lock the end of a pry bar into and turn it around so the drain plug is at the bottom. When you have it in front of you, put a 5 mm allen key in but not a traditional type, you must use a socket mounted one. Put it in and locate it properly, then fit an extension bar onto it and Hit it with a heavy lump hammer, several times, on the end of the extension bar. This is to break the rust that will be around the threads and shock the rust loose. Then put the ratchet on and start undoing it. If you don't do this, it might not come out and it might round out. This also helps to seat the allen key bit properly. The above was taught to me by a Mercedes Expert Technician and works very well. How you would deal with a rounded out drain plug i, would dread to think! Also it might be a good idea to buy a new one from mercedes, to refit afterwards and making next time much easier, they can't be very expensive and to know the head is good next time must be worth a few quid ! Very best of luck and well done for doing it yourself Phil Thanks a lot for the explanation



Richy190E	Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:55 pm Post #11
Sales Rep Posts: 1,832 Group: Members Member #1,387 Joined: June 9, 2007	If it does round out you tack weld a bolt to it and fit a new plug simples.



ThankYouLord	Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:36 pm Post #12
Member Posts: 1,519 Group: Members Member #108 Joined: December 17, 2005	Richy190E Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:55 pm If it does round out you tack weld a bolt to it and fit a new plug simples. I will remember that one - thanks !



Richy190E	Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:50 pm Post #13
Sales Rep Posts: 1,832 Group: Members Member #1,387 Joined: June 9, 2007	Yep its saved my bacon a few times now, especially on flush sump plugs which use torx or allen bits, when they round out I just tack a nut, bolt or whatever, The heat of the weld and the extra torque shifts it.



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