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| New install - Improved and so nearly complete!; Updated 21st June 09. | |
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| Topic Started: Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:47 pm (584 Views) | |
| sportline_stu | Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:47 pm Post #1 |
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Well, I have finally got round to installing my system after several threads over recent months about where to put a sub, what size speakers fit and what bits to get etc! I decided to do the best job I could do, bearing in mind I work full time so only have weekends free and although I have the use of my garage, I do not have a workshop as such or a thousand and one tools to use. I had a free afternoon yesterday and a free day today (Sunday). Stage 1 was last week which was a new head-unit. I wanted one that would control my ipod and also had controls for a sub. This was the cheapest Alpine I could find on ebay that did both. It was delivered to my door (2nd hand) for Ģ65. It has a lead that comes out of the back which connects to the ipod. You can skip tracks using the controls on the Alpine and it charges the ipod, which is useful. I removed the glovebox lining and fed the lead through. I like Alpine I always have. Simple to use and a quality brand.  My ipod can sit in the glovebox out of the way. I just cut a small hole in the glovebox lining for the lead and fed the cable to the back of the stereo. See below:  Stage 2 was an upgrade of speakers. I had a set of Pioneers which I had purchased a few years ago. They were over Ģ50 back then so I knew the quality was there. They fit perfectly and the dashboard grills hold them in place by pushing down on the tweeter. The soft element of the tweeter is protected by the plastic surround so no chance of damaging them. The Alpine has 50w x 4 so it meant an upgrade of speakers to get the best from it. Because I do not listen to insanely loud music I have decided to use the head unit to power the cabin speakers and not a separate amp. By keeping the bass control to a limited +1 or +2 the speakers can take any track I want to my listening level. The sub will bring the bottom end up.  Stage 3 was the wiring - no dull pictures (trust me - I have many!) but I ran new speaker cable from the rear and a phono to phone lead for the sub along the drivers side. Removing all the trim and pulling the carpet up for a tidy job was a real pain in the a**! Then I had to do the same on the other side for the amps power and remote lead! Stage 4 was the rear shelf. First step was to remove the rear seats to get the shelf out. To avoid rattling and a 'woolly' sound from the rear I cut a piece of MDF to fit under the parcel shelf. The plan was to cut speaker holes and the first aid box hole in it and then screw it down to the metal underneath. There are a number of holes already there to use. The new rear speakers will be fixed secure to this.  I then took a recent purchase - an unmolested parcel shelf! (thanks murgy) so all holes would be in the right place for my build. I also like the black shelf over the standard grey.  The speaker holes were cut in the shelf and the first aid flap cut off. Now the shelf can sit on the MDF panel and when the speakers are screwed down the shelf will also be held secure and pulled tight against it.  I managed to find a set of 17cm Pioneer speakers on ebay from the same range as the fronts. They are brand new and have the same characteristics as the front set. A crisp treble, clear vocals and a punchy mid bass but still lacking at the low end. However I didn't expect a huge amount from only four relatively small speakers. This is how it is at time of writing as I ran out of time! The MDF panel is secure and the shelf is sat on top. The speakers are not screwed in but I have left them sat there so I have some tunes in the car on the way to work.  Stage 5 is the sub. This is my test/temp sub. Its an old Fusion 12" in a ported box with matching amp from my dance music days! I dont plan to keep it so left the dust and cobwebs in situ. I just needed to know the wiring worked. It is loud, but for me the sound is a bit 'boomy'. It makes the car shake but I need a tighter 'punchy' sound. I recently had the pleasure of listening to the set-up that ukmerctechie has in his car. Its a single 10" sub in a custom box sat right underneath the first aid hole. Everything was clear and balanced with that punchy bass you feel in your stomach.  Stuck the Fusion in the boot and all worked! Sounded pretty good tbh but not quite right. The petrol tank gets in the way of pushing the box right back so the sub fires directly through it. I can see why so many of you have custom builds to get the sub right up under the hole.  Anyway, as I said earlier, I had decided a tight sound was what I wanted and I always planned Alpine head unit and Pioneer elsewhere (I already had a set of Pioneers speakers so didn't make sense to purchase anything else), so........... last week I picked this ebay purchase up. Its two ten inch Pioneer subs in separated non-ported enclosure for Ģ65. I linked only one sub up and it was the sound I wanted. Less 'rumble' and more punch. Heavy metal drumming sounded hard, but the bass lines from pop tracks still shook my teeth!  I think one of the subs will come out and I will make some sort of enclosure to fit directly under the first aid box hole. I'm not sure yet. Wont have chance for a few weeks anyway. I'm open to suggestions. Sometime this week the following needs to be sorted: 1. The rear speakers need securing down and the rear seats replaced. 2. A black cloth cover needs to be made and fitted over the first aid hole. 3. My fusion sub needs securing into the boot and the levels set correctly. I will update this thread as I get chance to complete the work. Thanks for reading. Stu |
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| rick 1 | Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:06 pm Post #2 |
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brilliant,that rear shelf is a work of art!!. |
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| CrysAk | Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:55 pm Post #3 |
Moar Bass!
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looking good m8, il have mine all fitted his time next week so il throw pics and details of that up, might get a few ideas for yours 
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| Snake | Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:23 pm Post #4 |
Old free and tattooed
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Good stuff, tell me did all 16v,s come with front only speakers.. 
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| sportline_stu | Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:26 pm Post #5 |
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Cheers, but please just don't look too close at the quality of my saw work! |
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| sportline_stu | Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:28 pm Post #6 |
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If you plan on a suspended 10" sub under the shelf then I look forward to the pics! |
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| sportline_stu | Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:29 pm Post #7 |
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Ive heard the 16 valve engines ticking over and I'm surprised you can hear the front speakers, let alone wanting rears! |
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| Snake | Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:50 pm Post #8 |
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Old free and tattooed
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Thats a point...  
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| Sev | Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:25 pm Post #9 |
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 ahhh, man. a perfectly good speakerless and 3rd brake lightless parcel shelf. i needed one of those. |
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| sportline_stu | Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:54 am Post #10 |
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Sorry Sev but my ears take priority! :-) I did have some thoughts about keeping it original for posterity as it seemed a shame to cut it. BUT, needs must etc. Stu. |
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| Snake | Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:35 am Post #11 |
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Old free and tattooed
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Wtf do you want that for Sev, you actually need a car to put it in or were you gonna make a shelf for the wall with it... 
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| sportline_stu | Thu Apr 2, 2009 4:40 pm Post #12 |
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UPDATED 2 APRIL 2009 REAR SHELF COMPLETED AND SECURED. The rear shelf has now been completed. I simply overlaid the original shelf on the MDF panel and screwed the speakers down. The screw goes through the grill, the speaker, the shelf and into my MDF panel. Then the little metal clips that come with the speakers are on the underside so the screw goes through them as well, pulling all the layers together.  I still need to paint the screws black as the black ones that came with the speakers were too short and so I had to use others. The shelf simply wedged in place. I pushed it back to the window as far as it would go and while it was being held in that position I screwed it from underneath to hole it in place. There are about 6 small holes around the first aid box hole that I used, with screws just long enough to go through the MDF panel and slightly into the original shelf. It is very secure. The original shelf has a bit of a 'spring' to it, hence the slightly raised edge around the hole. This will be taken care of when I make the port for the sub. I am considering using the plastic frame from the first aid box 'flap' in some way so it looks pretty stealthy but not sure if I can get this idea to work. It sounds good but I do wonder if I should have installed bigger speakers, maybe even a set of 6x9 considering the work I have put in. The rear speakers are still limited with their bass response. Maybe I should consider filters on the cabin speakers to cancel any frequencies below around 120htz and let the sub take the strain? I only have a pre-out for the sub so would either need an amp that accepts a high-level input with a high-pass filter for the cabin, or maybe in-line passive filters for the cabin speakers but run from the head unit power? What do you think? Once I get the sub in I will update further. I am now decided on a single 10" sub in single cabinet. Something like this below. I intend to line the enclosure to prevent vibration and suspend it directly under the hole. I have already worked out how to cut some of the box away so the thick part (the base in the picture) fits over the petrol tank. The thin part (the top in the picture) will be on display under the shelf and angle away towards the base of the petrol tank. The edges of the box will be sealed up against the underside of the shelf so no bass can escape except through the hole in the shelf.  I have toyed around with the idea of a larger enclosure with the 10" firing into the car through the aperture and the 12" firing into the boot but I'm not sure how it would sound or what benefit I would get? Stu |
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| highwayman | Sat Apr 4, 2009 1:18 pm Post #13 |
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Great build there!! Looking forward to watching your final build  Keep up the good work!Is it possible to still put the first aid box into the hole and secure it the original way although the MDF shelf is there? The MDF- shelf is something that definitely needs doing on my car, as for now the speakers hang freely in the parcel shelf and donīt give out much sound at all. 
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| alan | Sat Apr 4, 2009 1:56 pm Post #14 |
this looks like fun
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Would it not be better to build a custom box rather than modding a pre built one but sounds like its gona be a cracking job when you done |
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| sportline_stu | Sat Apr 4, 2009 2:04 pm Post #15 |
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Thanks for the comment mate I will do what I can to finish it asap! As for the first aid box - I have just tried for you and it would go back in, if the hole in the MDF shelf was a little bit bigger so it was not the same size as the hole in the metal below. It does sound better than speakers I have had sat in the original shelf myself but don't forget no matter how secure it is, the size of the speaker will limit the volume/bass. Thats why I have done all this to get a sub through the hole. I'm sure someone told me that some JBL 6x9's will fit with no need to cut the metal underneath. If I am unhappy with the final result then I imagine I would remove the shelf and cut some large oval holes! Stu |
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| sportline_stu | Sat Apr 4, 2009 2:14 pm Post #16 |
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Maybe...... But a pre-built box will be pretty much the correct volume for a 10" sub and I have no doubt be better built than what I would make! I could make some odd shaped box for my boot but if it has too much or too little volume it might affect the quality of the sound? I only need to cut about 1" out of the base of the sub box so the base of the sub box sits flat against the petrol tank and the majority of the sub fires through the hole. Then I plan to glue some think spongy rubber around the face of the box so when pushed up under the metal shelf it 'seals' meaning the sound can only go in one direction......... my ears! I have big plans but little budget or time.  I'm after a discreet build because I use the boot to carry things. I'm always open to ideas and suggestions though. Stu |
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| sportline_stu | Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:23 pm Post #17 |
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Right, Well I've finally found time to continue the work. After a recent issue with testing and the quality of the sound I discovered I had mis-matched the wiring in the speakers meaning the positive and negative speaker cables were not phased properly leading to a lack of bass. Once that was all sorted I spent plenty of time experimenting with what sub sounded best for me - 12" ported, twin 10" sealed or single 10" sealed. I decided on a single 10" sealed and planned to build a custom sub box which would sit against the petrol tank with the sub firing straight up through the hole for the first aid box. I had recently re-visited ukmerktechie and had the chance to see how his system had been built. It only took a few minutes of the 'test disc' running and my lungs shaking in my rib cage to realise that a well designed system with a single 10 was fine for me.However, I had to consider that my car is my daily driver and I do need boot space so after a long think I decided a permanent build is not what I was going to do right now. Also I just don't have the time right now and needed a 'Saturday afternoon' solution! As I had the two Pioneer 10's in a ready made box I decided to use them and plan a way of fitting them securely, BUT, they must be very easy to remove in the event of needing to get to the spare wheel or loading the boot up. First I needed somewhere to secure the brackets for the subs and after removing the boot linings found the bolts that hold the petrol tank in place. I decided to use the lower two. If they are strong enough to secure a full petrol tank they will be fine for my subs! Here is one of the bolts:  Next I made a wooden ledge out of 12mm MDF. This bolts to the rear of the car on the petrol tank fittings and sits on the metal floor of the car under the tank. The depth allows the spare wheel flap to still be lifted up. The wood and metal brackets allow the sub box to slide into the ledge. Once in place the sub box WILL NOT move left or right or backwards.  Here is my ledge in situ. I stapled a piece of carpet to the underside to stop any vibrating and to allow for any nuances in the metal floor:  The boot floor mat fits in place and slides under my ledge. I replaced the material that hides the petrol tank but I needed to cut the bottom inch or so from it to allow for the shelf. I didn't really want to cut or damage anything as so far everything I have done to my car can be removed as I have kept all the parts including the original shelf and first aid box etc. Still, needs must and it is only a bit of material. This is the sub box loose in situ. It sits slightly 'wedged' in place in my ledge. I have screwed a piece of 12mm MDF (with carpet on the underside) to the underside of the box so it now all sits at the same level. I think it looks neat but a bit boy-racer? I can see myself removing the ledge and fittings to spray it all matt black when I get a chance so it isn't so obvious:  Next stage was to consider stopping the sub being able to move forwards and upwards to ensure is secure. I discounted screwing it into the ledge as I want a quick/easy release. Now it's not finished...... but the basic idea will be a 'clamp' that will secure the sub at the front and also hooks over the back of the petrol tank. Like this:  See how it is held at the petrol tank end - more boot material had to be cut away:  I can add a block of wood to this clamp to sit against the rear of the sub as well so it can't move at all. It literally just pops off, but when it's in place its tight as the sub box pulls against it. It should be easy to wedge the clamp down as the shelf is only a couple of inches above it. Then it will be secure but easy to remove. The first aid box hole is simply covered with picture frame cut to size and black material stretched over it. Still a bit more to go including: 1. Finish securing the sub. 2. Check the subs are wired up in the best way to get the most power from the amp. Currently the amp is bridged and the low pass filter set at 100htz. The subs are 'daisy-chained' ie a cable goes from the amp to sub 1 and a second cable goes from sub 1 to sub 2. 3. Decide if I should use the built in high pass filters in the head unit for the cabin speakers or not (can be set to 80, 120 and 160). 4. Buy/borrow a 'test disc' to play the full frequency range to ensure the 'set-up' is right. Any advice on this? I always intended on buying two new amps. One for the cabin speakers and one for the sub - either Pioneer to match the speakers or Alpine to match the head-unit but at the moment the funds evade me. So the cabin speakers are powered from the head unit and subs powered with a cheap/old amp I can see the amp being fixed under the rear seat for neatness when the settings are done correctly. Next mission: easily removable custom built sealed 10" sub box pointing up through the shelf hole and sealed around the sub and the underside of the first aid box hole so no bass can go anwhere but up through the hole.......! Stu |
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| CrysAk | Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:32 pm Post #18 |
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Moar Bass!
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lookin good m8! keep us posted, cant wait to hear it, you best be comin to retro 
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| sportline_stu | Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:08 pm Post #19 |
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Well its about time for an update! Since my last post I decided to do a 'proper' job and stopped any work until I knew exactly what I wanted to achieve and the the 2.6 was a 'keeper'. After several tests on the speakers, I realised the Pioneer subs were very good and decided to keep one of them for my install. It also matched the branding for the Pioneer speakers in the cabin. I also later sourced two Alpine amps to match the head unit, a 2 channel for the sub thanks to Andy (ukmerctechie) and a 4 channel for the cabin speakers from ebay. It was time for a proper re-wire and with the help of Andy (well he kind of did it really) the interior was stripped ready for the new power wiring, speaker cables and RCA leads. Power down the left, RCA down the centre and speaker down the right side. At this point I have to give so much credit to Andy, a very knowledgeable chap who constantly pointed me in the right direction and insisted it was all done properly. No shortcuts here! First step was the full interior removal for the wiring.   The design needed a sub firing through the first aid box hole so I cut some pieces to fit the underside of the shelf to act as side walls. I made a cardboard template first which took longer than cutting the wood.  Not a bad fitting bit of handywork for a guy who wears a shirt and tie to work! A bit of sponge/foam will pad this out.  Add a backplate and this little shape ensures all the sub sound come through the hole and not out the boot! It will be screwed in place from the topside of the parcel shelf.  The sub is screwed in place, the screws pull into the MDF but also have metal grips on the underside for a tighter seal. Oh yes, sealant around the sub, around the wood joins and everywhere the wood touches metal. I really hope I never have to remove this from the car! Foam padding to correct my cutting error.  Once screwed into place the board also sits on top of the petrol tank. The tank was unbolted and put in its lowest position so the shelf could fit. The size of the subs housing and magnet dictated this. See how its all sealed!  Although there are umpteen screws and sealant holding the woodwork in place and the fact it sits on the petrol tank, the shelf (or baffle board) is also bolted left and right through these metal spacers. A long nut/bolt/washer combination travels through the thick metal tube and pulls the MDF up REALLY tight.  This piece of MDF is a temporary cover to seal the enclosure. The sub acts in 'free air' in the boot, using the boot enclosure as a cabinet.......... at the moment. More to follow (but the Pioneer sub appears to be designed to be boxed or un-boxed its just a question of sound taste). This is how it was when the lack of daylight and then daytime dictated it was time to leave Andy and head home. My old amps had been temporarily wired in and screwed to a board so it worked fine.  I then fitted a backboard using 'L' shaped brackets at the top. I identified roughly where the amps were to go and drilled holes for the cables remembering to keep power away from RCA and speaker etc. This was a bit of a pain bent over in the boot and cutting the wires to length and re-fitting clips etc seemed to take ages!  I then cut a shaped piece of MDF to fit the sub amp and fuseblock to. Its wide at the top to match the shape at the rear of the boot. Though the pictures do not show it very well, you can still access the rear shock fittings so when new shocks one-day arrive (hopefully with AMG or sportline badges) they can be fitted. He hopes!  Same on the other side, though the amp is much bigger and the fitting is a little out. This will need a little re-working. The spare wheel can still be accessed very easily and the boot carpet will lay flat and slide under the woodwork. This is where I got to as I lost the sunlight yesterday (Sat 20th June).  Finished? No. But its all wired in and works. Both amps have built in filters set to a default of 80htz for a cleaner sound. The cabin speakers handle no low bass below 80htz. The levels still need setting to get it right, but at the moment its very 'neutral' sounding meaning if you play an acoustic track its very crisp and clear. If you play dance its loud and bassy. It's almost like you hear the track as its supposed to be heard, as it does not make all music bass heavy. Whats next? Well in the short term I plan to box the sub in for a tighter bass response, use a pressure fixing to secure it to the boot floor with no need for drilling, and then carpet it so the MDF and wires are hidden. I also need to improve the earth locations due to a small amount of interference (only started after I changed the earth location and had to extend the earth cables to reach). Ive since been informed they need to be as short as possible and with separate earthing points. Long-term the head unit needs changing as it only has a sub RCA out. At the moment the speaker outputs from the stereo are converted to low-level RCA output by an adaptor on each channel. The up-side to using this meant I could install the system and put the RCA leads in place for when I upgrade. The downside is a small decrease in sound quality and a small amount of 'hiss' from the speakers at low listening levels on quiet tracks. I'm happy so far! Stu |
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| mindingthepotole | Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:12 pm Post #20 |
Go on... buy a rusty one. lol
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awsome mate, you should be proud |
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| sportline_stu | Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:24 pm Post #21 |
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Cheers but I cant take all the credit! The brains behind it and the sub design isn't mine. I'm proud of what I have done though. Its also about time I did it properly, after years of hiding cables just under the floor carpet edge and fitting active 12" subs to standard factory installs. My 190 gets one step closer to being my ideal car! Stu |
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| alan | Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:36 pm Post #22 |
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this looks like fun
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that is some work looks good are you painting or covering in carpet or something else like leather |
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| sportline_stu | Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:46 pm Post #23 |
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I have some grey carpet/felt to match the boot stuff. I plan to make thin MDF surounds that I will carpet and velcro in place. You will see the amp but not the cables or MDF etc. He hopes! Stu. |
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| alan | Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:53 pm Post #24 |
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this looks like fun
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sounds good have you thought about doing that except with a hinge and a like magnet clip to keep it closed it might last longer than the velcro |
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| sportline_stu | Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:58 pm Post #25 |
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Good idea mate! Cheers. Stu. |
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| CrysAk | Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:10 pm Post #26 |
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Moar Bass!
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very nice work m8 i HIGHLY recommend you sound deaden with dynamat extreme, if atleast the rear shelf and areas around the install, as this will stop the whole car from vibrating |
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| bolide | Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:39 pm Post #27 |
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Try raising the crossover frequency for the fronts to 100 or 120 Hz. The gap between the rear & front crossover frequencies doesn't matter because cabin gain is likely to fill in the hole. And filtering out another half octave to the fronts will reduce the amount of work they have to do and make them sound a lot better Nick Froome Edited by bolide, Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:49 pm.
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| sportline_stu | Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:53 pm Post #28 |
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Cheers mate and yeah I do have plans for some sound deadening material. I planned to deaden the petrol tank, the metal shelf underneath the rear speakers and the box around the sub when its been built (or maybe even the inside of the box - would that work?). However there is still plenty to be done before this kind of finishing touch. The cost prohibits me from doing much more - like deadening every bit of metal in the car! The shelf does vibrate at the moment at volume, but its not yet finished. It worked fine before the sub was fitted! I was unable to screw it down from underneath as I had before else I would never be able to remove it as the new install would block access. Ive had an idea about taking it out, then taking it apart and removing the padding from the underside of the original shelf and then glueing the shelf direct to the MDF underneath for a tighter and lower fit. The 'new' shelf would also be dynamatted underneath and held in place with velcro. Should work, but that is another Saturday lost to this project! Stu |
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| sportline_stu | Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:01 pm Post #29 |
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Both amps have a set filter at 80htz for the high and low pass filters. I guess it must be Alpine's preferred crossover point? Oddly, a cheap Fusion amp I have has a variable filter on a dial from 60 to 160. The Alpines are far better quality and sound much better but they are fixed. Stu |
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| Ukmerctechie | Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:32 pm Post #30 |
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So thats what it looked like when you left,it was just a hazy blur to me at that time of night Looking really good mate,Very nearly there now. It was a pleasure helping out and i can truly congratulate you on your Chippy skills,must be in the blood  Must say it did sound good on my test track 1970's ultra cool(And i still say i saw your feet tapping )
Edited by Ukmerctechie, Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:33 pm.
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| CrysAk | Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:28 am Post #31 |
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spot on m8 inside of the box can be done, or you can go the route i went with the white fluffy stuff specially for the inside of the box |
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| sportline_stu | Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:52 pm Post #32 |
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I was less surprised about the sound quality and more surprised that your music was available on CD and not just LP! |
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| sportline_stu | Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:56 pm Post #33 |
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The in-car-entertainment fairy has today delivered a rather special present - a carrier bag full of white fluffy stuff! |
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| sportline_stu | Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:00 pm Post #34 |
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Interference problem fixed. One of my earth leads was touching the main power cable. Doh! Even the thick plastic surrounds didn't insulate it. Earth cable moved - interference gone! Stu |
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| Ukmerctechie | Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:03 pm Post #35 |
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You know you loved the music! I hope so anyway,i have done you a copy of the disc as a pressie
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| CrysAk | Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:07 am Post #36 |
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your coming to retro right? we will have to have a sound off
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| sportline_stu | Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:32 pm Post #37 |
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A sound off? Are you joking? My single 10 v your twin 12's!! That would be a slaughter and not a sound off! Retro falls on a week that I need to cover another department at work so I dont think you will see me. At least that means the car will be even more complete when I do finally get chance to go to a G2G or retro! Stu PS How does Jack Johnson sound on yours!?
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| mertz88 | Sun Nov 8, 2009 7:29 am Post #38 |
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Could you show where you have penetrated the firewall to get the amp cable from the battery? pics possibly ? |
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| Russell | Sun Nov 8, 2009 7:48 am Post #39 |
Can now officially play at being Victor Maitland at the weekends
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Stu im stunned - thats some ammount of work there - what an awesome build!!
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| coachwhip | Sun Nov 8, 2009 1:45 pm Post #40 |
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From the battery you can follow the rest of the wires through into the car, then along the sills , under the rear seats then if memory serves me. There is a small rectangular grommet on both sides of the bulkhead to the boot, i pushed the battery cable through one side and speaker wires and phono leads through the other side. I've no pic's of my install left I don't think though, but might be able to get pics. Mike P.S. How loud has anyone managed out of their installs ? I used to have 2 V12 amps, pair of diamond audio components and 2 * 12inch subs in the boot. I could get up to around 137 but after that the battery and alternator couldn't keep up, even with a powercap. The subs were in custom boxes in each side of the boot well, so left most of the boot free to put things in. Also if anyone is interested then I have a spare amp that i probably won't put back into it when its running again, its a Alpine V12 1507 |
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6:49 PM Nov 25
