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| Guide to Replacing Balljoints | |
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| Topic Started: Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:21 pm (754 Views) | |
| Ukmerctechie | Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:21 pm Post #1 |
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Had to replace my lower balljoint tonight and some other little jobs on the same side so decided to do a little write up. I am using the Merc tools for the job,so you will need to arrange to sort a balljoint tool out to install the joint. Standard 190's do not need to be stripped to the extent i have stripped mine(Larger brakes and rollbar make it neccessary on mine). DISCLAIMER:If you kill/damage yourself whilst doing this(Flying springs and the like)i accept no responsibility,i actually advise you to get it done by someone trained to do it/using the correct tools. 1. jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel from the side your working on.Stick the car on axle stands.  2.Use a spring compressor and relieve some tension from the spring(if you dont have a compressor you can do the job propping the arm up with another axle stand or jack PLEASE BE CAREFUL if doing it this way) I have fully removed it to replace the spring cup.  3.Remove the end clamp from the antirollbar(To allow the arm to come down from the stub axle)  4.Undo the lower arm clamp bolt and remove the bolt.  5.Push the arm down and the stubaxle up and remove the balljoint shaft from the stubaxle hole,clean the sealer from the stubaxle split.  6.Swivel the strut and stubaxle clear of the arm(May be neccessary to undo the track rod end to gain the clearance) 7.Remove the balljoint from the arm,i used a balljoint tool,but you can remove it by propping the arm up and heating gently on the arm around the joint and bashing it out with a lump hammer.Prop the arm as close to the joint as possible to minimise the risk of bending. 8.When the joint is out,clean the inside of the balljoint mounting hole with fine wet and dry paper,clean all the rust from around the hole. 9.This is the bit you really need a tool for,i have seen them done by hitting them in with a hammer but this usually shortens there life. 10.Ensure the notch on the balljoint is in line with the hole drilled in the arm.  11.Then press the joint into the arm.  12.Assemble the removed components. 13.Arm to stub first,torque the clamp bolt to 125nm,then seal the split in the stubaxle with silicone sealer.  14.Rebuild the rest of the removed components and release/refit the spring. Ensure the spring end is sat in the groove correctly with the end against the stop.  15.After everything is back together refit wheel and remove stands and lower vehicle. 16.Torque the wheel bolts to 110nm and thats it. Hope its of use to you all. Edited by Ukmerctechie, Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:14 am.
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| kentronix | Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:28 pm Post #2 |
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fantastic mate, just in time, I am due to do this to a mates car very soon. |
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| Ukmerctechie | Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:32 pm Post #3 |
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No problems Kenny |
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| dave_irl | Fri Jan 30, 2009 7:44 am Post #4 |
I love offset.
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Very nicely done dude 
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| wink | Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:09 am Post #5 |
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Great post very clear for D.I.Y -but I think i'll just get you to replace mine when needed. |
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| MadMike | Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:02 am Post #6 |
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Kenny, what are you going to use as a press... to get old one out and new one in ? |
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| shrekky | Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:04 am Post #7 |
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great post,straight out of the haynes manual......................and like the haynes manual,it makes the assumption you have/or can afford the "correct tools" or have tools kept in a garage(oxy/acetylene for heating components)..........................the reality of it though is that the run of the mill enthusiast/DIYer,can neither afford or warrant the expense of the £350 spring compressor or the £280 ball joint tool. what the average DIY'er/enthusiast needs to know,is how to remove a ball joint,if you havent got the "right tool" or heating equipement.and it just refuses to budge. for example: you say undo the lower arm clamp bolt,now i see yours has sealeant over the crevice,now if you do this on your own or even customers cars,to make future jobs easier,then kudos to you for doing it,but reality of it is............i have NEVER seen this practised by any garage,and there is quite a chance the bolt could be corroded in there,and would require quite a bit of force to remove it,even to the point it might damage the bolt |
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| Will | Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:59 am Post #8 |
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I think DIY is a great way of learning, saving money, making sure a job is done properly etc  But, I refuse to use incorrect/dangerous methods or tools for doing things. I think realistically if you haven't got a proper ball joint press, it's much safer to remove the wishbone and just get the joint pressed in/out properly using a hydraulic press. Heating and hammering a suspension arm surely isn't very good for it. Won't the heat cycling affect the metal and could the force of such great hammering not bend or damage the arm in some way? I'm sure there was a member on here who found that he had a ball joint that obviously hadn't been fitted correctly and it was half sticking out the bottom of the wishbone, no doubt due to lack of correct tools/practice  I need to do this job on one of my cars soon, but it'll be either (a) buying a proper ball joint press (most likely), or (b/c) removing the wishbone and replacing or having new joints pressed into my original arms. Fair enough, we all like the occasional workaround ('bodge'), but not when it comes to safety-critical items such as steering, suspension or brakes. FWIW, the 'Haynes book of lies' actually doesn't cover removing or fitting the ball joint, they insist that it should be done by a main dealer due to the need for a proper press. Will |
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| Will | Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:00 pm Post #9 |
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Great post BTW UKmerctechie - most helpful Will |
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| Matt | Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:13 pm Post #10 |
Administrator - Hawk Eye
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Yeah good post (write up) Andy
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| NEIL | Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:36 pm Post #11 |
Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Sean, this is becoming something of a broken record. Andy has done us all a very big favour by showing the novice how the pros do this job, and I'm sure I am not alone in appreciating it. You have described your method many times, so perhaps it's time for you to post a photographic write-up, with a clearly-worded disclaimer that people follow your guide at their own risk to themselves and their car. As these cars get older, enthusiasts will begin to spend more and more money on quality tools to keep them running properly, Will being a prime example in this case. If you think that a few hundred quid on tools for a handful of jobs is too much, then that's your prerogative but tbh there are now a good few members on here with £10k+ invested in 190s that will really benefit from write-ups like these and the opportunity to borrow/rent the correct tools for the job. In the same spirit, there are likely a good few members who'd like to see how you've done yours, and take their chances with that method. There's room for both on here, as you well know |
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| kentronix | Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:57 pm Post #12 |
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I am happy to do it either way but for anyone who has access to the tool its clearly far easier and I would probably have peace of mind, especially as I am doing the job on someone elses car. I certainly wouldnt pay for the price of the tool but hire price for a day or so should pay for itself in the time it saves me.... assuming I can get a good deal, eh will 
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| MadMike | Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:09 pm Post #13 |
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Wasnt there someone here not too long ago who was going to buy the tool and then hire it out to th rest of us......? |
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| Everton | Fri Jan 30, 2009 2:18 pm Post #14 |
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You could probably get it done by a mechanic for less than the price of the tool, I got my nearside done the other week, 3 hours labour and whatever the ball joint cost, plus other bits and bobs and an MOT for £270 |
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| Everton | Fri Jan 30, 2009 2:18 pm Post #15 |
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Good write-up, I'd wondered exactly what the bloke had to do to replace it |
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| NEIL | Fri Jan 30, 2009 2:19 pm Post #16 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Yes you can, and I paid £240 for a mechanic to supply & fit - but the point of this is a write-up for those who want to learn, save cash or p'raps have several old Mercs! |
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| Everton | Fri Jan 30, 2009 2:23 pm Post #17 |
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Ten Four 
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| G3MAW | Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:28 pm Post #18 |
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Impressive post, especially the picture sequence. Just a thought - I contemplated doing this job on my own but I was glad I didn't when the mechanic I went to found it impossible to undo the two wishbone bolts on each side. The only solution was to skilfully cut through each bolt with a grinder, without damaging the inner wheel arch mountings. Rusting of these bolts is quite common, apparently. Doing the job without removing the wishbone IS DANGEROUS without the right spring compressor, as others have pointed out, and replacing the ball joint 'in situ' needs care and experience. Sorry to sound like a wimp, but as the Great Clint once said, "Man's got to know his limitations..." |
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| shrekky | Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:45 pm Post #19 |
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neil, its not that i think a few hundred quid is to much for a few jobs...............................i know it is,which is dictated by my circumstances.....................disabled and unable to work. and i never said it was a crap write-up,just the reality of many 190 owners not having or buying these tools ,andy is a unique position of having access to tools must of us just dream about. there are several types of owners/enthusiasts those that can afford to put it in a dealers for everything to be done(less than probably 1%) those that have the money to do the above but like tinkering themselves(and can afford the tools)(probably about 5%) those that dont have the money but are capable of doing jobs themselves and those that dont have the money and cant really afford to put it in the dealers or even a independant garage. and here's the thing neil......................it was stressed about heating components up,maybe not being good for the car................unless you make sure the garage you take it to has the correct tools (good luck,because as of yet andy is the ONLY PERSON i know has the correct tools) ,because i went to my local stealers today and they dont even have the balljoint tool !!!.................they use the same method as me..........a FBH !!! the point of my post was...............andy has all the correct tools and that is wonderful,he also has access to some data the rest of us cant get access to,and while showing us how the job should be done,again which a great thing,in future posts can he remember though that not all of us are a perfect situation,and maybe he could use his vast knowledge to offer advice (with a disclaimer of course) of how it may be done if you dont happen to have to "right" tools.....................this way his posts would be useful to alot more members,not just a small percentage. |
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| NEIL | Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:57 pm Post #20 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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I just didn't think your post was remotely constructive, and that if you're going to continue to tell people how this job should be done it's money-where-your-mouth-is time. Do a photographic write-up! Going over the reasons why people choose one method over the other is pointless, let's just have both pinned here so folk can choose. |
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| dave_irl | Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:15 pm Post #21 |
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I love offset.
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Does anyone remember the post/thread that had the vid by that German tool company, pretty much doing the exact same as Andy has above? though I think their press was hydraulic rather than manpowered but the principles were identical. It would be handy to link to this thread too. PS I never thought of sealant on the split in the hub carrier, none of my cars had it so I never thought to renew it, but when I put in the new wishbones (whenever the rain stops) I'll definitely use it. Its the type of 2 second job that saves lots of ache later due to something rusted or seized. |
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| khimani_mohiki | Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:12 pm Post #22 |
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Well i guess its nice to know how the pros do it but its always good to know how things work and have a go at it yourself. Theres nothing wrong with a ghetto repair if it gets the job done, i followed shrekkys rear suspension guide and got my new springs and shocks in out on the street. Shrekky.................perhaps you can put together some kind of haynes style ghetto repair manual...................with pictures of course 
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| Matt | Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:24 pm Post #23 |
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Administrator - Hawk Eye
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Here you go Dave. Its the Klann Tool Ball Joint Removal Video |
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| dave_irl | Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:29 pm Post #24 |
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I love offset.
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Cheers mate, that the one. What I'd give for a shelter to work on my car, let alone a pristine garage that would rival an operating theatre in a hospital. He doesnt even get his hands dirty !!B****D!
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| Ukmerctechie | Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:00 pm Post #25 |
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@Shrekky There really is no safe way to do this job without the correct tools,it can be done but safely? The risk of damaging the balljoint/arm/yourself is too great to take the chance on. This was the point of my post,to demonstrate the need to use the correct practises and tools. If the joint is damaged during install or incorrectly fitted,it might not just be the part you damage but you yourcar and the poor sod you hit when the front hub decides to detach from the arm. The stresses imposed on the joint is huge,greatly increased when wider wheels/lowered suspension is thrown into the mix.To this end the price of renewal by someone technically capable of doing this job correctly and not Ghetto style is small indeed. As to the sealer Dave,the sealer should be removed and replaced everytime the lower bolt is removed/loosened to prevent the bolt/joint pin from corroding.If you have a car with no sealer it is quite likely the joint has been renewed out of dealer/independent. Edited by Ukmerctechie, Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:14 pm.
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| cossie connoisseur | Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:06 pm Post #26 |
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its nice that we have a comparison on how to do it both ways guys as there is a threat with the way shrekky does it |
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| kentronix | Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:49 pm Post #27 |
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no point arguing about this, there are several ways to do every job, people will know what level they are at and what they are comfortable with and choose that option. I am doing one soon but havent decided which route to take but I will decide based on what I am happy with. And if its not the special tool route then I will take lots of pics for a thread, although I am not sure they allow the use of digital cameras in hospital ? Many people say you shouldnt attempt to remove the front springs without a tool but I found a bfm, a plank of wood and common sense worked fine for me. Oh, and a nice mug of tea. |
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| Ukmerctechie | Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:57 pm Post #28 |
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The price of this job totals £100 a side,this seems a small price for peace of mind and safety to me and my customers.I have no problems with people going there own way with things but it is wrong to recommend or show people how to do things a dangerous way. The dangers inherent with working on cars is great enough without adding unsafe practices into the game. Hence the disclaimer at the top of the post. Edited by Ukmerctechie, Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:00 pm.
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| Matt | Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:03 pm Post #29 |
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Andy is quite right, it all comes down to safety. I for one wouldn't want to tell a new member, or any member for that matter, how to do something without the proper safe tools/methods and for them to injure themselves as a result. Those front springs are under ALOT of pressure! |
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| big al merc | Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:25 pm Post #30 |
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i am doing this job tomorrow
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| aemt | Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:39 pm Post #31 |
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My mechanic charged me £125 labour and £25 for the joints. I personally think that is extremely good value and given the safety implications of a botched job one I am quite happy to pay for. There are a hundred and one other jobs I can do on the car to save a few bob which do not threaten the saftey of either myself or any passengers. |
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| toff190 | Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:35 pm Post #32 |
190 Mob Member and a Wise Guy.
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There are many ways to skin a cat, my way, after reading this post, and watching the video, Mercedes Main Dealer. |
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| Ukmerctechie | Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:08 pm Post #33 |
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I can suggest a safe way to remove the old balljoint but can think of no safe way to install it. Strip the arm to the same point where the balljoint is fully showing. To remove the joint drill several holes in a circle(almost touching) in the lower cap of the balljoint.  Tap the pivot pin of the joint until it falls out the bottom of the joint(breaking the cap where you drilled the holes). Insert a hacksaw blade thru the hole left from the pin and attach the hacksaw handle. saw thru the balljoint casing up to the arm(dont cut into the arm). Support the arm as close to the joint as possible and tap the joint out. Cutting thru the joint will release the holding pressure from the joint allolwing it to be tapped out with little force.No need for heat or excessive force. As for fitting it,you are stuck with the tool. Several people mentioned removing the arm to press it in/out. This poses several problems,firstly the eccentric bolts holding the arm to the car are usually seized solid and require a lot of work to free/cut out(Ask Dave_irl  ) and secondly removal of the arm will require a wheel alignment to be carried out and this can work out expensive and require renewal/freeing of several other components,this method could prove to be more costly than getiing them fitted proffessionally.The heat needed to remove a stuck balljoint cut this way is very little,a hot air stripper gun played over the arm for some minutes will supply enough and will not damage the arm in any way. Edited by Ukmerctechie, Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:18 pm.
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| big al merc | Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:53 pm Post #34 |
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now that is a really good way of taking them out
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| Ukmerctechie | Sat Jan 31, 2009 6:52 pm Post #35 |
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I am in the process of thinking of a safe way to fit the joint using easily available tools at the moment,i will update this post when i have tried out my idea. Lets see if i can come up with a safe/non damaging way for the diyer's to remove/fit the joints without damaging anything. |
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| nezamr | Sat Jan 31, 2009 8:24 pm Post #36 |
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thanks, great write up! If i get any problems with my car while up in Bangor, i know where to go get it repaired!!! |
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| Ukmerctechie | Sat Jan 31, 2009 8:54 pm Post #37 |
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No problems mate happy to help any member out. For those interested my busines is called AutoBarn and i am based in Ledsham near chester. My busines number is 0151 3479999 |
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| alan | Sat Jan 31, 2009 10:45 pm Post #38 |
this looks like fun
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Very useful thread hope I won't need to do this for a while after just replacing the wishbones as I needed new bushes aswell as ball joints What I found when removing them was where the sealant goes I had wee spacer thingys these were replaced on rebuild what are they and would it be a good idea to put sealant on it now??? |
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| Ukmerctechie | Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:26 pm Post #39 |
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The spacer thingy is the original sealer from the factory with the outside bit broke off. Was it like a plastic feeling strip between the 2 sides of the stub joint? If yes remove it and replace with sealer,it will not be doing its job now the hub has been separated. |
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| alan | Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:42 pm Post #40 |
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this looks like fun
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Yeah a wee plastic job is it normal to have lasted this long or have others put it back like me but ill seal it next time I'm working round there |
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