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| Insurance Co Cat Damage Scales | |
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| Topic Started: Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:08 pm (430 Views) | |
| cra_arc | Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:08 pm Post #1 |
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A - Not for resale. Fire damaged (burnt-out), flood damaged (contaminated or salt water), severely damaged with no serviceable parts, or heavily stripped (shell). Notification of Destruction required. (To be crushed). Recorded at DVLA & HPI. B - Not for resale. Damaged beyond economical repair and/or severe structural damage. Notification of Destruction required. (Parts can be removed and sold). Recorded at DVLA & HPI. C - Repairable salvage. Generally applies to older vehicles. Can be sold for repair but must now have VIC inspection. Recorded at DVLA & HPI. D - Repairable salvage. Minimal damage sometimes stolen and found after claim has been paid, or cost of repair combined with difficulty obtaining new parts to enable a swift repair. Recorded with HPI. X - Repairable salvage. Not recorded on any registers such as HPI. Limited or very light damage, or vehicle is new or less than 12 months old. Usually requires minimal repair work. NOT Recorded with HPI. |
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| 190neil | Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:48 pm Post #2 |
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It actually takes VERY little damage to write an old car off as a C or D & they can be great bargains. |
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| julian | Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:55 pm Post #3 |
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Actually getting an old car written off can gain you a few quid. Duaghter in law's b/f was hit side on by another car in a Nissan Micra, still got a courtacy car 3 weeks on, and they wrote off the car off as beyond economical repair, offering him a grand. His uncle works for a garage, and they can repair and paint the damage for less than £500 not on the cheap mind, just a trade discount as his uncle is staff, and using salvaged parts. So he's well over £500 quid up just before xmas, and they haven't asked for the courtasy car back yet, his motor's back on the road tomorrow :lol: |
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| cra_arc | Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:51 pm Post #4 |
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nice! way to go its good when people get summit out of the insurers for a change trouble is in the long run thats put the average insurance quote up by 0.0000000000000001 p lol
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| howard35 | Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:31 pm Post #5 |
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Very true - suprisingly minor damage can write-off an old car due to repair cost exceeding value of car Someone stoved-in my drivers door = class C write off ! Cost of a new door plus respray saw to that - insurance company couldn't cost the repair any other way - they can't deal with 2nd hand parts Car was valued at £ 1000 - I bought it back for £ 130 !!! Howard Fulford Bath |
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| julian | Fri Dec 21, 2007 12:20 pm Post #6 |
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Although getting a grand for your motor from insurers and repairing it your self cheaply with used parts can be a nice little earner. I wonder how long it will be in these environmentally friendly times before recycled body panels become commonly used for motor repairs, especially on older vehicles. Or even insurance companies offering that option especially if it reduces their total pay out. On the subject of insurance right off's and getting cheap repairs, the use of reclaimed body parts in my opinion is a far superior option than buying new body parts, even if they're genuine MB. This is for several good reasons too. When I worked in the trade back in the late seventies, new body parts were beginning to be favoured more than repair. Since then more and more manufacturers have been using bolt on panels and much more plastic components. When cars came into the spray shop for prep, which had new panels fitted. In most cases they had been repaired with body filler even though they were new. Seems strange but true, most replacement body parts get damaged in transit. Then they're delivered to the body shop, where they're usually hanging around waiting to be fitted. During this time before fitting and even during fitting almost every panel will have sustained some sort of minor damage due to small and even large dents obtained in this period. Then you have the under-sealing to be done before fitting sometimes after, which to be honest is applied pretty thinly in most body shops I've been in and straight on to the manufacturers Black primer. Then there's the curing time of under seal and overprinting which to be honest rarely happens correctly. More often than not the car would arrive in the spray shop after a last minute squirt of under seal. Where inner wings were visible, the sprayer applying the top coat would spray up under the wheel arches with wheel off and strut area masked off. There’s no way you're going to get proper coverage to the inner wheel arch like that. Now using a reclaimed panel especially if rust free is a far better option. The under sealing originally undertaken in the factory is far superior to any you will get in a body shop. Especially the MB under sealing on our 190's When I recently jet blasted all the inner arches on my 2.6 I was amazed how the under sealing had held up. Not only that a full solid top coat has been applied too. The under seal applied at the factory would have been fully cured prior to top coat, and entire inner panel have been covered in the finished colour. I noticed also on the 190's that the inner wheel arch lip is back filled with some compound under sealed and fully painted also, The only reason these wheel arches suffer from rust is that they're not cleaned and a build up of silt on the inner arch eventually compromises the coatings. Either that or actual stone chip or similar damage to the arch not attended too. Once fitted all you need to do is make sure that any fitting edges to the inner panel where fitted to existing bodywork is sealed and over coated with under seal and top coat, easily done with some Schultz colour coded tinny as you only have to apply to the areas where joined not the whole inner wing, making this job a lot simpler for the DIY'er as well as the pro. If you're lucky enough to have found a good colour coded panel without damage, then its job done at this stage. But even if you have a different colour panel rust free with a slight dint or two, it's already coated with quality MB paint, might only need a straight flat, and could possibly be over painted without the need for primer if no dents and carefully rubbed down. So not only do you have a good solid under sealed panel but one with mostly original MB paint applied. Fitting a new wing will require possible repair, 4 coats primer, fine filler and wet & dry rub down, another 3 coats primer light wet and dry rub down, possible spot prime and then application of top coat. And of course the reclaimed panels would be much cheaper to source in the first place. I could confidently conclude that fitting a decent used body panel or door, and more commonly now plastic front and rear bumpers. Would actually be far cheaper than purchasing and undertaking the repair work with new panels. |
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| NEIL | Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:16 am Post #7 |
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^Great stuff Julian. TBH I think the Insurance industry has been wasting money (and great cars) for decades. Writing off reliable cars with 50-150k miles left in them for bodywork damage instead of encouraging the recycling of panels. Only when a manufacturer comes forward and declares their product as 'recyclable' and sets up an infrastructure within Dealerships to actually recycle parts, will any difference will be made. At present, the Insurer cannot guarantee the sources of recycled/salvage spares, so why bother trying? F**k 'em. I'm so glad they didn't get hold of my car this year...  You're not wrong about the silt build-up in the inner-arch lips, the crap that came out when I did mine was unreal! Definitely gonna keep on top of them to ward off the evil Tin Worm... |
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| RM Merc 190 | Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:53 pm Post #8 |
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More info C/o Jeremy: http://www.autocheck.co.uk/write-off-categories.html#categories |
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