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| Flakey Dash Light Brightness Knob Fix : Tutorial | |
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| Topic Started: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:03 pm (938 Views) | |
| kentronix | Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:03 pm Post #1 |
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May not be worth doing on its own but if your clusters coming out you may as well. It will fix the issues where rotating the dash light illumination knob will result in drop outs where the lights drop off every now and then. Remove the cluster from the car as described in the dash removal tutorial (or many other posts). The rear of mine looks like this but there is some variation. However all will only require removal of one screw to remove the potentiometer unit. ![]() After removal your potentiometer will look like this, well, perhaps without the strange fluff :- ![]() You can see how the metal cover is clamped over the base. If your not confident then simply spray lots of wd40 (or AF spray) under the metal cover and clean with a match stick or something similar. Concertrate on the curved springy part and also the pinhead looking blob at the end. If your more confident then open the unit up and clean all the parts more thuroughlly. The two springs shown in the pic will most likely pop out when you open it up so be ready for them. They actually go in between the plastic wiper part and the metal wiper part, pushing the metal bit onto the curved spring. ![]() Refitting is pretty simple really, it may take a couple of goes to keep the springs in place while you refit the cover, and when you attach the whole unit back to the back of the cluster you should rotate the brightness knob on the front of the cluster so it will align and drop back in. This tutorial has been brought to you by the letter K and the letter E and the letter N and the letter T and the letter R .......... |
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| Lewis 190E 2.5 16 | Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:04 pm Post #2 |
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I love speedbumps
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Nice one, done mine last year and its been fine since... Anyway nice guide... |
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| kentronix | Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:20 pm Post #3 |
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cheers matey, nice to be appreciated. Its not particularly hard to do but its nice for people too see what to expect before they start the job. |
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| Rich27 | Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:45 am Post #4 |
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If it has tits or an engine it will be trouble
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Kenny, How the heck did you manage to get it Fluffy like that?
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| kentronix | Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:49 am Post #5 |
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I have no idea, its stuck on good and proper too, I guess its the behind dash version of pocket fluff. |
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| NEIL | Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:52 am Post #6 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Nice work! Tell me; Does Potentiometer = Rheostat? |
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| kentronix | Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:52 pm Post #7 |
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The sort answer is yes. Of course that wont do me so......A potentiometer (or pot) is short for potential devider. What most people call a voltage is really a potential difference. A potential devider will put a resistance across the potential difference (from +ve to -ve) and allow the output (middle pin) to vary anywhere from one end to the other. Thus allowing the result to vary between the minimum and maximum 'voltage'. Be it light output, volume, etc. In fact the pics above make it really clear how this particular one works. The spring has a resistance. One end will be close to zero and one is close to 12v. You sweep between the two. Rheostat is normally used for higher voltage stuff like mains boilers and stuff but they are the same item. Lecture over if could you return the textbooks to the front as you leave. |
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| julian | Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:21 pm Post #8 |
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Great stuff, photos are great too, hate trying to do stuff from instructions only. Can't read :lol: |
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| MICHAEL | Fri Nov 30, 2007 8:44 pm Post #9 |
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I, in my ignorance, always thought a potentiometer worked by Mercury. :lol: Wherever did I get that idea. :lol: |
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so......
12:27 PM Nov 26