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| Welcome to the Mercedes 190 forum Welcome to the Mercedes 190 owners forum, the place to be for all owners and lovers of the Mercedes 190E, 190 and 190D cars. Including Cosworth (2.3 16v and 2.5 16v), EVO 1 and EVO 2 models. Modified and concourse, track cars and daily drivers, all are welcome. This free UK based club was started back in November 2005 to serve the w201 community and now has over 4000 members from all around the world and 340,000 + posts. The members welcome you and encourage you to stay a while and have a look around. We offer you friendly chat and access to some very useful information as well as tutorials with photos and videos for many common repair and maintenance jobs. Whatever your needs there is a good chance you will be able to find what your looking for. Such as our Mercedes 190 buyers guide Sign up to gain access to all areas including for sale / classified areas and country wide meetings and events. Many forum features and sections are only available once you sign up. Join our us at mercedes190.co.uk! If you're already a member please log in to your account: |
| Cleaning & Detailing Tips & Pics; Post yours here... | |
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| Topic Started: Fri Jul 20, 2007 11:02 pm (4,623 Views) | |
| NEIL | Fri Jul 20, 2007 11:02 pm Post #1 |
Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Ok, to kick off i will try to describe a typical full clean/detail on my car, and some alternatives. I will not bother with pics this time as frankly you have seen them enough times and I have no new ones. WASHING If you can use a hosepipe, this will help but it's not essential. Instead, use more than one bucket - one with shampoo, one with clean water and another one with clean water if you have it. The MOST IMPORTANT thing is that you do not wash the car in direct sunlight - in 'summer' try and leave it later in the day if you can't find a shady spot. Good shampoo is worthwhile, i use Auto Glym Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner. It doesn't contain harsh detergents, and will help maintain any previous wax/sealant/polish treatments you've performed. There are many to choose from, you don't need to spend loads. Wash the car from roof down, preferably with a wash 'mitt' rather than a sponge - less chance of you dropping it on the ground, and usually a more thorough cleaning action. Try and rinse your sponge / mitt often during the wash. As a cursory note, the main reason Fairy Liquid is SO wrong (yes, some people DO wash their cars with it) is that it contains quite a bit of salt, which f**ks up pretty much every type of automotive finish. DRYING I use a large Synthetic Chamois, dampen it, wring it out and then just drag the opened-out chamois over the panels - the 190 has nice flat panels, very easy to dry. Waffle-weave MicroFibre towels are an even gentler alternative. The reason traditional Chamois Leathers are not preferred is that they have a tendency to 'drag' on Wax, and attract grit. Synthetic ones are easier to wring too. POLISHING This is a subjective stage - if your paint is really cloudy (oxidised) or heavily scratched, you may wish to try a slightly coarser treatment like Auto Glym Paint Renovator or Meguiar's Scratch-X before commencing the Polish stage. Polishing must not be confused with Waxing - Polish is more about revealing a paint's true colour and levelling/smoothing the surface - it is technically an abrasive step, and can be over-done. Be careful, and buff off the polish regularly to inspect the results. The work you do with Polish should then be protected with Wax or Sealant. Application is best with cotton stockinette, Terry cloth or foam pad. Apply more pressure (on application) on the areas with most scratches/hazing/cloudiness, and try to finish the polish application in straight lines, along the aerodynamic flow lines of the car (i'm not joking - it helps avoid new swirls, and aids Wax application). Also, avoid using Polish on your black trim - it ends up turning your cloth black and actually working ground up rubber/plastic into the body paint! Use masking tape if you need to. Buffing off can be in typical circular motions, with a MicroFibre towel. Brands of Polish are abundant, i personally favour Auto Glym Super Resin Polish. However, other brands such as Meguiar's, Zymol, Einszett, Chemical Guys & Sonus are available online, along with reviews etc. Coloured Polish (Simoniz & Turtle Wax) is just evil - overpriced, the colour does not last (most of it ends up on your application cloths) and it will stain your trim. Avoid like the plague. TRIM & RUBBER CARE The W201 is blessed with incredibly tough trim inside & out, that can be brought back to almost new condition with little work and the right kit. A really soft MicroFibre cloth (for buffing off), a Terry cotton application cloth and a good trim product like Auto Glym Vinyl & Rubber Care can work wonders on everything from door cards to window rubbers. For other trim such as the roof strips, wiper arms, door handles & bumper strips, i use Auto Glym Bumper Care. This stuff really is magic, it's a gel that has mild abrasives in to deep clean trim and then you buff it off to a natural, protective finish. The best thing is that Auto Glym products don't assume that all of your trim is black - Vinyl & Rubber care is colourless (a bit milky) so it's ok on pale trim. Similarly, Bumper Care is a pale green colur - it can be used to shine up the entire lower cladding, door mirror shells and colour-coded door handles. Tyre dressings are down to personal preference - the most important thing is that the tyres are actually CLEAN before you apply any tyre dressing - otherwise they will look worse than when you started, inside about a week - Scrub them with an old brush and car shampoo. I use (you guessed it) Auto Glym Instant Tyre Dressing but there are many out there, all with their own unique 'look'. Try and keep the tyre dressing on the tyres only, as many will spatter all over your nice clean bodywork if you cover the edges of your wheels in it too. The easiest way to apply is not to spray it onto the tyre directly, but onto a rag, then wipe it onto the tyre. WHEEL CLEANING Exactly when you clean the wheels is up to you. Sometimes i do them before washing the body, sometimes not. A good stiff brush (plastic or wooden handled) is handy as it will help you get the stubborn brake dust off. Wet the wheel first, then spray on your wheel cleaner of choice. Most wheel cleaners that you find in Halfords or Petrol Stations are very acidic, and are best used sparingly or watered down. Sometimes it's enough just to use bodywork shampoo. It's more important to agitate the cleaner fluid on the wheel with a brush or sponge, rather than let the fluid burn streaks into the lacquer. Give 'em a good old scrub, and try not to let the wheel cleaner sit on the wheel for more than a minute. Don't miss the bolt-holes, they can let a clean wheel down. Also, for burnt-on spots of brake dust, i have heard that Clay can help with removal. WAXES & SEALANTS WAX is a natural product, usually based around Brazilian Carnauba wax. Comes in tubs, and is usually applied with either foam pads or bare hands. Generaly, the higher the Carnauba content, the higher the price. Wax is non-permanent, provides a very effective water repellent and a deep, wet shine. Designed to be applied & buffed off once every 4-6 weeks or so, some people find Wax a bit much to maintain. Also, many waxes benefit from several initial applications; ie i used P21S Concours recently and it advised applying coats 7 days apart - the second coat made a huge difference and i will apply a third soon. Hopefully those coats will last 2 or 3 months. Typical brands of wax: Zymol, P21S, Victoria, Poorboys, Pinnacle, Swissol/Swissvax. SEALANTS are generally man-made, but can often contain wax blends. They offer more of a semi-permanent protective treatment. Often more difficult to apply or buff off, they are more likely to be used only every 6 months or so. Wax can be applied over some Sealants, especially after the Sealant has been on for some time. The finish isn't as deep or wet as Wax, the trade-off for convenience is evident. However, for cars that do high mileage, sealants are usually the best option. You should certainly Polish the paint before applying a sealant, it will enhance the look enormously. Sealant brands: Auto Glym Extra Gloss Protection, Poorboys, Zaino. Many of you will notice that i did not include CLAY in my detailing steps. I've yet to try it, and tbh most detailers see it as an essential step when stripping old wax/sealants from the car and giving it a thorough preparation. Clay is a paint cleaner, it removes contaminants from the paint and helps keep it glass smooth. Claying comes straight after the first Wash - after you Clay you Shampoo again, then Dry. Next would be the Polishing stage. Glass cleaners are another area where i have not really experimented - sparkling glass really sets a car off, and every so often i use a Glass Polish (Auto Glym) which is simliar in application to bodywork polish - wipe on, buff off. After that, keeping the glass clean is easy and means i don't have to squirt concentrated glass cleaner all over my windows every time i wash the car (it can mark and stain your trim/seals if you aren't careful). There are so many products and techniques, all i can tell you is what i do and how i do it. Engine bay detailing is more in involved, and i haven't really gone far at all with mine - all i know is than when i poured about half a pint of water over the Gunk'd valve-cover & manifold, the car was reluctant to start for a half an hour or so... So from now on i just dress the rubber and gently clean components with brushes! Other members seem to have successfully jetwashed the entire bay with no ill effects..? Please post YOUR detailing/cleaning routines, results and thoughts in here 
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| Matt | Fri Jul 20, 2007 11:18 pm Post #2 |
Administrator - Hawk Eye
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Pinned sir
**Note** Can we keep this thread as simple posts for tips and guides and not have posts with just random comments. I just think it will make it alot easier to navigate and seeing as its a pinned thread, it needs to be purely informative. Cheers chaps. |
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| MadMike | Sat Jul 21, 2007 9:38 am Post #3 |
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Does anyone have tips on cleaning the seats ? Mine are in good condition but dirty. Is is best to get something in Halfords, or just use warm soapy water ? I want to clean them but dont want to do any damage to them,make them run, fade etc. Any advice before I start ? Have left it to do in the hot/warm weather so that they dry quickly. |
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| julian | Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:33 pm Post #4 |
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Diamond Glaze good stuff so far. I recently tried a new type of car body/protection on the car. Some members who saw the finish on the car at Santa Pod wanted to know if it stayed any good. The Product is called diamond Glaze and I got it from netparts.co.uk It costs £29.99 a small bottle, which made me dubious, but after reading some feedback about it I decided to give it a go. I applied it nearly 3 weeks ago just before Santa Pod. Application is quite hard work, the liquid is quite thick and spreading this out evenly over the car wasn't easy. However removing this stuff was a doddle, came off easier than any kind of wax I've tried before. The finish I got was superb and a real eye opener, never had such a good shine on the car after waxing. I have to say I'm very impressed with this stuff so far. The car stays incredibly clean, water beads off it now exactly like it did when first applied. In fact the car is so clean that it hasn't actually been washed as such since coating it. All it's needed since is a wipeover with a damp microfibre. Every time you do this you get a Crystal clear finish on the car as if you had just waxed it. Bird muck flies and tar wipe off pretty much effortlessly. I also did the wheels with it, and the brake dust wipes off a doddle leaving them sparkling. If the car still holds it's shine for another couple of months then I would recommend it. Aparrently this stuff is not a wax, but some kind of coating, it's worth reading up on. The bottle you recieve is small about 250cl 8oz but I only used half of it, so could apply another coat if or when it wears off. My only niggle with this stuff was that any dried deposit after polishing was hard to remove from Black rubber or plastic surfaces. Fortunalelly it all came off in the end with some elbow grease, and all the rubber on the car now looks new after renovating it all with boot polish. |
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| Studio-City | Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:38 pm Post #5 |
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I have used this in the past but not a fan of it at all... But im glad its worked for you! |
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| julian | Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:43 pm Post #6 |
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I noted 190 Evo's comments on Jet washing engines. I have always jet washed the engine of any car I've owned. At the end of the day if you use a jet wash on an engine, just let it thoroughly dry before attempting to start the engine. Also check that the spray pressure hasn't dislodged any pipes hoses or electrical connections. |
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| Studio-City | Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:46 pm Post #7 |
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Again...I would never jet wash an engine...A bit of elbow grease is far safer! |
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| NEIL | Sun Jul 22, 2007 5:17 pm Post #8 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Sounds like most other sealants - Auto Glym Extra Gloss Protection included. They are all designed to be very low-maintenance and durable, and are generally a bitch to remove from plastic & rubber trim. Any products offering 'Lifetime Protection' immediately get my back up - the car's own Paint does not carry a lifetime guarantee, neither do the clearcoats used on new cars today. To think that a wiped-on product out of a bottle could outlast a manufacturer's paint job is ludicrous. Julian, your AMG looked fan-bloody-tastic at Retro, really immaculate, but please don't expect this product to look after your car for you. Wiping over the car with a damp MF will likely scratch away the protection quite rapidly - you should instead give the car a gentle rinse, and a little shampoo now and again with a soft mitt. As said, good quality shampoos don't strip protection, they enhance it
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| julian | Sun Jul 22, 2007 6:19 pm Post #9 |
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Hi Evo I can only tell you how the product is performing, and have said that I would recommend it if it lasts. Don't forget I've been trained as a car sprayer and done my fair share of valeting so don't need lessons in car cleaning. I haven't said it would last a lifetime, or that it would protect my car, any more than a decent wax would. but I would say it's the best car body product I've used on any car thus far for getting an excellent shine, and for repelling grime so promoting easy cleaning. I can now clean my car by just wiping it over with a damp Microfibre and attaining a showroom finish in about 10 minutes with no smears or scratching, I simply don't need to use shampoo and water and waste all that time and money. However to justify it's price I would expect this coating to maintain it's current protective finish for last at least 6 months. I have half a bottle left so £30.00 worth lasting a year without having to buy other cleaning products would be a good deal. I'm probably more sceptable than most, but another product I purchased from this company following good recommodation also worked, called Spray and shine which cleans your car without using water whatever state it's in. People say that this will scratch your car as you're wiping dirt into it. Well it doesnt, the product does work as it says on the tin. I've used it numerous times already on my car and company lorries. Technology has moved on with this type of product. and can assure you I wouldn't put anything on my 190 without being 100% confident it wouldn't do any harm. The spray and shine is also recommended to use on the Diamond Glaze after it's application, but havent used it yet as the car comes up so well with a quick wipeover. I was also very sceptical about Rain Away and No Fog, from the same company, but since using these products I've hardly had to fill my washer bottle, get fantastic visibility especially at speed, use wipers much less, and save money on copious amounts of washer fluid used previously. And with No Fog I havent had steamed up windows sinse applying it 3 months ago, even in this shite weather. Nothing wrong with being sceptical, but writing products off out of hand without trying them isn't informative. |
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| NEIL | Sun Jul 22, 2007 6:35 pm Post #10 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Point taken dude, no offence intended at all - i'm learning new stuff all the time about detailing too, and the tech is moving forward, but i do remain sceptical of some of the claims made by products. I'm glad the AMG is proving easy to keep clean, from what i remember you do a fair mileage in it. Of course, any more pics you wanna post are more than welcome
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| Lewis 190E 2.5 16 | Sun Jul 22, 2007 6:40 pm Post #11 |
I love speedbumps
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I would love to see some more pictures of you car julian. Lewis |
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| marcus.hopkins | Sun Jul 22, 2007 7:39 pm Post #12 |
Administrator
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My advice is: If you can, buy trade products No disrespect to anyone but i am a valet and have used all the autoglym products of which are very good but grossly overpriced as are maguires products. Once again i stress that these are NOT bad products. The secret of good paint is DO NOT use detergents. They strip the wax layers that you have been building up and then attack your paintwork. As previously stated FAIRY is a big NO NO as the salt levels are extremely high. There are products available that will purify your tap water as you use it to wash your car. (If anyone wants to know the science to this please PM or email me as i am trying to keep this posting short). You will be amazed at the results before you even wax. Do not use an abrasive polish unless really required. Just use a good product containing waxes (normally carnuba wax and others). And also avoid polishes containing amonia. These are the ones that can not be used in direct sunlight and leave marks in the paint. When i had my red 190 the same as 190Evoluzione's i could use in the sun no problem. As we all know the red 190's are the hardest to keep looking good as even when they are shining as bright as the sun when you look into the paint they are covered in Faded marks within the paint. The polish i use removes these marks in one go ( ask Mart )Plastics fade due to drying out. Plastic is an oil based product, so to restore the lustre of you plastic and rubber components use an oil based restorer (or even new engine oil). Allow to penetrate the plastic/rubber and wipe dry. One of the biggest NO NO's is DO NOT use products that contain silicon on your car. It spreads beyond the place of application. It also attract dirt and is extremely hard to strip off. You can make your tyres look as good as new without looking artificial with the oil treatment but apply sparingly and it goes without saying only do the walls and dont oil the tread. Any advice required please PM/email me. I am happy to pass on my suppliers details and the names of the products i use. As a guide Priced approx from top of head Supreme car polish £15 5ltr Revive plastic/rubber restorer £20 5ltr Tar and spot remover £10 5ltr These products only need to be used very sparingly, and are the only 3 products i use on a car as a rule. The car polish is non abrasive and if you get it on your plastics will not leave white stains. It will actually polish the plastic without spreading undesired contaminants onto the paint surface. Marcus |
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| cossie connoisseur | Mon Jul 23, 2007 5:57 am Post #13 |
fat tits
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i apply my wax with my hand and not a pad, works MUCH better. Just my 2p worth |
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| Studio-City | Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:21 am Post #14 |
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you have been watvhing too much karate kid! wax on, wax off! |
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| NEIL | Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:25 pm Post #15 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Some of the kit i use:  For buffing off Super Resin Polish, Ultra Deep Shine and Extra Gloss Protection i use a medium blue Microfibre cloth - not pictured 'cos they're all filthy & awaiting a wash. The blue cloths you can see are used for Engine Bay & Wheels, as they're coarser. For buffing off the P21S Carnauba wax i recently bought (again not pictured) i use the Meguiar's Ultimate Detailing Microfibre cloth, which is White, & folded up above the Wash Mitt in the second pic. The little nail brush is used for scrubbing tyres clean, the paintbrush is used dry for getting cruddy Polish deposits out of panel gaps and also sometimes used loaded up with Engine Degreaser for engine-bay cleaning. Synthetic Chamois - use is obvious Other terry cotton cloths & dusters are used for applying & buffing trim products like Bumper Care & Vinyl & Rubber care. |
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| Studio-City | Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:35 pm Post #16 |
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Shall i post my lot? |
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| NEIL | Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:38 pm Post #17 |
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Yes please, i for one am very interested to see what you use. A few 'results' pics would be nice too!
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| Studio-City | Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:41 pm Post #18 |
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Neil, i have been waiting for the last 6 weeks to 'do' my car. But the weather has been awful as you know! But ill post some pics as soon as my battery is charged! |
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| RM Merc 190 | Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:35 am Post #19 |
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Any pics/products yet? |
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| andycowman | Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:32 pm Post #20 |
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I tried Marguires Carbuna wax using pads / cloth and it was not great. I then used my hand and the finish was much better. I jet wash the landrover engine regulary but I have only once done the merc engine and I was very careful. I covered up the alternator plugs and blocked up the air intake. I then did it very sparingly after applying some MUC Off. Muc off is good for general dirt, it also has the benefit that it won't damage your driveway!! I use Zymol car shampoo, Zymol Polish and Auto Glym Ultra deep shine. Excellent finish. Andy |
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| RM Merc 190 | Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:46 pm Post #21 |
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Why is there a difference in the outcome with using your hand or a cloth? |
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| cossie connoisseur | Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:55 pm Post #22 |
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fat tits
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using your hand warms the wax releasing oils that penitrate the paint giving a richer shine. cloths can also scratch the bodywork |
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| andycowman | Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:04 pm Post #23 |
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It was also much easier to apply using my hand! Another small tip for thse on a budget... satin black and clear lacquer from halfords on things such has faded trim come up very nicely once its hardened using Autoglym's Ultra Deep shine. Unless you look closely the result is very close to 199 mercedes black paint  Andy |
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| MBZ190D | Tue Aug 14, 2007 4:18 pm Post #24 |
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Just going to say we have no probs with jet washing engines bays at work. Thats on new Volvo's with loads more electrics than 190's! we usally do it with the engine running before the car goes on a test drive. obviously don't over hold it on for ages in one place. Also I use all the meguiars range plus T-cut. |
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| Studio-City | Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:50 pm Post #25 |
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Have not washed the car in well over three months, beeen far too busy. Plus this weather has been totally Sh!te! I cant really do anything when its raining or when its sunny, it needs to be a dull dry day... Im getting some stuff from the states tommorow, my bro is coming from LA so i took advantage of it :-) Will post pics of what i get. |
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| NEIL | Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:57 pm Post #26 |
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Saw a guy do this to his bay (BMW E46 Cabriolet) at the local Jet-Wash, and the car was fine. TBH i would not expect my car to start immediately after doing the same, pouring a jug of water over the rocker cover would likely have it spluttering for a good while. And before you ask - my Jet-Wash method is to take a bucket, wash mitt, AG Shampoo and synthetic chamois to the jet wash and just use it on rinse mode, avoiding the harsh wax-stripping shampoo in the machine. Wheels & tyres are done by hand when i get back home...
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| cossie connoisseur | Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:18 am Post #27 |
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i dont use jet washes ever ever! |
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| NEIL | Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:34 am Post #28 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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It's more out of convenience, when i can't park directly outside my flat. When i can, i run a 50m hosepipe over the balcony down to the street and do it all there. I get rich old housewives asking 'how much i charge' and their surprise upon learning it's my own car never ceases to amaze... :lol: |
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| Studio-City | Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:33 pm Post #29 |
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As promised, some of the stuff that my bro brought back :-) |
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| charl44 | Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:35 pm Post #30 |
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I`ve heard very good reports about the poorboys trim restorer, nice collection. Ian |
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| Studio-City | Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:23 pm Post #31 |
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Thanks Ian :-) Hence why I bought it. im looking forward to using it sometime this year, LOL |
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| NEIL | Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:56 pm Post #32 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Top stuff S-C, liking your Waffle-Weave drying towel. Let us know just how good the 3M stuff is, i'm very intrigued. |
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| Studio-City | Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:21 pm Post #33 |
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Thanks Neil. I have not washed the car in over three months!!! The way the weather is going who knows when the next time will be. But i think it will take a good two days to clean it properly! LOL I love 3M stuff, i used the quick wax before and its amazing stuff. Used to like Zymol, but i think its over rated. Same with Klasse. Pretty middle of the road results. Im really excited to try this:   Its almost like wool and you can use it on all metals...Im going to use it on the grille. Wish we could get this stuff here. |
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| NEIL | Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:35 pm Post #34 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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Anyone remember DuraGlit? It was a wadding-polish too.  I used to do the chrome frame & rims of my BMX with it... Top stuff. |
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| Studio-City | Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:46 pm Post #35 |
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That rings a very faint bell... I had a grifter and a chopper :-) |
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| johnalpi | Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:53 pm Post #36 |
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I was on the hunt for some of the recommended products in this thread and came across THIS and thought I should post it for discussion. The product is made by a company called WAXOYL and they say "Never Wax Your Car Again!!".... mmmmmm, thoughts? Has anyone used it? |
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| Studio-City | Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:37 am Post #37 |
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Item No: 320145880705 Totally useless. There is no such thing as never waxing your car again! Imagine if you never had a shower again! |
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| MBZ190D | Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:27 pm Post #38 |
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Is this stuff good Studio? I need some chrome cleaner. On a different note I had to get some new wheel cleaner the other day, I went to Halfords and they had none of the meguairs wheel cleaner I usually buy so I bought some simoniz wheel cleaner/brake dust repellent. Totally rubbish waste of a fiver hardly touched the brake dust I had to wash them with the car shampoo! |
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| NEIL | Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:44 pm Post #39 |
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Fewer Posts than Kenny
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^darn. I find AG Clean Wheels is plenty strong enough, i never leave it on for more than about 20 secs before scrubbing & rinsing the wheel. |
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| Studio-City | Mon Aug 27, 2007 8:04 pm Post #40 |
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what chrome are you tring to clean? is it the grille? i have yet to use it to be honest! but when i do i will let you know. like Neil says the AG alloy cleaner is good. |
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