Rear Suspension

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Rear Suspension; guide to changing it
Topic Started: Sun Jun 10, 2007 1:25 pm (1,784 Views)
shrekky	Sun Jun 10, 2007 1:25 pm Post #1
Member Posts: 3,918 Group: Members Member #223 Joined: March 23, 2006	to do either of these,first you will need to jack the car up and put it on a axle stand ,i put the axle stand under the diff (see picture),and remove the wheel,you will also have to remove the plastic cover for the bottom arm,which is kept on by 4 10mm bolt,arrowed 1 and 2 with another 2 on the other side of the arm 1) to change the shocker undo bolt A,which is a 17mm head and nut,then undo bolt E,compress the shocker and it comes straight out 2) to remove the spring,put the jack under the bottom arm and raise it a little,then undo and remove the bolts in above diagram A=17mm B=13mm and C = 22mm once you 've done that lower the trolley jack and it should be like the picrue below,push down on point D and the spring will literally fall out fitting is the reverse of removal



MBZ 190D	Mon Jun 11, 2007 3:34 pm Post #2
Member Posts: 71 Group: Members Member #1,126 Joined: March 31, 2007	Cheers, this will come in handy cos got to do both rear springs, already have them waiting to go on but need to get some rear shocks From star parts!



roadwolf69	Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:17 pm Post #3
Member Posts: 986 Group: Members Member #975 Joined: February 22, 2007	Those bottom arms could do with a wire brush and some paint, maybe black hammerite.



dave_irl	Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:19 pm Post #4
I love offset. Posts: 8,729 Group: Admin Member #6 Joined: November 2, 2005	Nice one, thats well handy, cant wait for my new bits to arrive so I can have a go. thanks Sean, pinned



Fearn	Sat Apr 19, 2008 2:32 pm Post #5
Member Posts: 84 Group: Members Member #2,111 Joined: January 6, 2008	There is an easier way which requires getting under the car a little so safety first always guys. Jack the car up then, support the FAR side of the arm, i use a bottle jack :lol: The only bolt you need to take out now is the arm/subframe bolt. take it out and lower the arm and it will pivot on the various links at the other end (hub, shocks, anitroll bar). It lowers just enough to take the sring out, and ofcourse If your getting lowered springs it's even easier to reverse the whole process. I took out the rear springs, cut them and put them back in an hour and a half.



High Compression II	Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:31 pm Post #6
Newbie Posts: 7 Group: Members Member #1,970 Joined: November 27, 2007	Great tutorial..... I have to change my rear springs, as I have an MOT failure because of a fractured one....



khimani_mohiki	Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:57 am Post #7
Member Posts: 338 Group: Members Member #3,735 Joined: January 16, 2009	I did my left last night, all the bolts seem to be fitted with interference nuts which when rusted are almost impossible to get off without grinding. I didnt have a 22mm ring spanner either so had to bend back that brake shield thing to get the socket on it and then use my jack to push the end of the racket up and loosen the nut a little, this after much grinding and several nicks to the lower arm. The old spring had clearly snapped at the bottom some time ago, so the new lowering springs didnt really make much difference as it was already sitting 40mm lower. Its all good though, replaced all the bolts with stainless and used aerotight nuts thoughout.



Sev	Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:45 am Post #8
No Longer a Registered Member Posts: 1,981 Group: Members Member #962 Joined: February 19, 2007	roadwolf69 Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:17 pm Those bottom arms could do with a wire brush and some paint, maybe black hammerite. dude i've been looking for a pair of rear control arms (aftermarket) in like, forever. i guess they can only be gotten from the dealer



D Merc	Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:53 pm Post #9
Member Posts: 70 Group: Members Member #3,463 Joined: November 4, 2008	Hi, does anyone know where to get stainless replacememnt nuts and bolts as mentioned above? Cheers. D Merc



stwat	Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:03 pm Post #10
Moderator Posts: 12,434 Group: Moderator Member #28 Joined: November 11, 2005	I wouldn't recommend using stainless nuts and bolts on any load bearing areas. They are not as strong as mild steel. It best to use galvanized if your after long term rust protection plus strength.



alogaparaloga	Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:02 pm Post #11
crazy mind Posts: 613 Group: Members Member #2,419 Joined: March 14, 2008	stwat Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:03 pm I wouldn't recommend using stainless nuts and bolts on any load bearing areas. They are not as strong as mild steel. It best to use galvanized if your after long term rust protection plus strength. I agree with Stwat. Stainless is harder than mild steel and it needs to be tightened at higher torque levels and has to be secured on the bolt - somehow - To undo rusty bolts the best thing is to use a spray can that instantly freezes the bolt to about -40C and then spray some WD40. The freezing temperature will make the rust particles to break and the WD40 will go easily in the rust. I have seen such sprays on the RS mechanical components catalog.



khimani_mohiki	Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:43 am Post #12
Member Posts: 338 Group: Members Member #3,735 Joined: January 16, 2009	Yeah my mistake, the bolts were zinc plated, I ended up going with M14 coarse thread grade 10.8 as they didnt have any fine thread locking nuts. Had to get the aeronuts skimmed down 3mm as well so they would engage with enough threads. But I would have to disagree with stainless bolts not being as strong as mild steel, bolts are available in all different grades and material compoitions so its likely there are stainless bolts which have right proportions of strength and corrosion resistance wich would prove superior over mild steel.



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