Dash removal (inc 16v) with pics

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Dash removal (inc 16v) with pics; 56k, FORGET IT MATE
Topic Started: Wed May 16, 2007 11:22 pm (2,683 Views)
kentronix	Wed May 16, 2007 11:22 pm Post #1
Admin Posts: 16,340 Group: Admin Member #147 Joined: January 20, 2006	Based on andy's great direction and my anal photo taking here is my 'how to remove the 190 dash tutorial'. Its performed on my 16v and its become aparent some of the screws/bolts arent there on my 2.6 so dont worry if they arent and if the dash wont move then hunt around in case you have extra screws. Also, remember most of these screws are different so either take pics, or use this when putting it back together Allow plenty of time, it isnt hard but it's quite time consuming. It took me about 2 hours, half of which was getting the steering wheel bolt undone. The rest was about an hour in total but its not a job you want to rush, you will snap all the fiddly plastic bits if you do. Firstly remove the centre console. FOR 16v ONLY Remove the metal ashtray inner. Remove the 2 screws holding the ashtray assembly into the 16v console. Withdraw the ashtray assembly and unscrew the screw either side holding the 16v dial assembly to the centre console. Be very carefull and pull the three dials down slightly and away from the dash. This snaps very easily so please take more care than I did. Now unscrew the 16v console from the long horizontal console that runs to the back of the car via the screw on either side. Back to all versions You may have two screws on the lower part at either side, I didnt on the 16v so I have no pics but they are very easy to spot. Remove the knobs for the heating controls by putting something soft over them (rag or folded cardboard) and then using pliers with gentle pressure and moderate pulling force. Then use largish pliers to remove the large nuts that are revelead. (be carefull of the glass bulbs) You should also remove the aircon (if fitted) and fan speed knobs in the same way. You should now be able to pull the console forward and down to seperate it from the dash. You will need to disconnect the recirculate switch as you do so. If it doesnt want to go then stop, look and listen, I am no expert I may have missed something Next you should pull out the central vents using something soft and some smaller pliers, needlenose work well but with care any should work.. This will reveal 2 screws, one either side. Then look in the gap above the open/close knob and you will just about see an allen bolt. Undo this carefully. You may find two extra screws that hold the center vents in. One is hidden behind the heated rear screen switch and the other is inside above the left center vent. Once this is undone you should be able to remove the vent surround carefully (allowing rubber thingie to come free). The platsic surround is very prone to cracking so be carefull !! You may find it easier to pull it forward then push it back while allowing the switches to poke out. This allows you to unplug the switches without putting strain in the plastic surround. You should now see something like this :- You then need to remove the lower dash panels under the steering column and under the glovebox. Simply undo the visible screws then allow it to drop down and pull it forward and out. This will reveleal a bolt on either side holding the dash in, which should be undone. Probably 10mm (confirm ?) Now you need to take the speaker covers on both sides off with a dumpy phillips screw driver and you will find an 8mm bolt underneath. remove them. (ignore my tweeters you will probably find a 4inch cone) Next you should remove the right hand plastic vent using the same method as with the centre ones. Once done you should examine what you see carefully. There are 4 plastic clips holding the vent surround to the dash. Use SEVERAL knives or blades to hold each clip so that you can remove the plastic part without any breakages. Its quite delecate so take your time. You can now slide your hand in round behind the instrument cluster to undo the knurled nut connecting the speedo cable. You cant really miss it, its pretty obvious and its the main thing holding the cluster from moving. Remove the cluster and unplug everything that is holding it in. Leaving you with this MESS Next you need to disconnect the headlight switch by pulling the knob off the same way as the heater control knobs and undoing the nut behind. You will also need to remove the vacuum lines to the headlight aim adjuster. To ensure correct refitment I suggest remove one at a time and refit without going through the dash. Then let the fully connected adjuster switch hang down BEHIND the dash. It was at this point I realised removal of the steering wheel was needed. Its pretty close and you may be able to get the dash out without but I doubt you will be able to get the new one in without braking it. I suggest doing this a bit earlier, probably before taking the instrument cluster out as it will make that slightly less fiddly. Removing the wheel is simple in theory. Pop out the round central merc logo in the centre and undo the bolt you find. In my case it was a 10mm allen head. You should line up the wheels so the wheel is straight. That way when you put it back on it will line up. In my case (and from what I gather others) undoing of this bolt was a complete pain. It took almost as long as the whole of the rest of the dash removal, I am not kidding !! The trick is to ensure the allen fits well, get plenty of leverage, and find a way of restraining the steering wheel. In my case after hours of fiddling with an allen key, mole wrench and lengths of pipe I gave up and bought a 10mm socketed allen key and used my t-bar and extension. I think �7 worth of tools and a trip to halfords was worth saving the time it would have taken otherwise. Once the wheel is off the dash should just pull out (lifting it over the indicator stalk). There are 3 screws basically holding the indicator stalk on that can easily come out and gives more room to move. You will have to disconnect the wires that go to the glove box light and the glove box switch can be popped out of the hole its in. Be carefull of this stalk when refitting. And try not to foget anything, the glovebox light is very easy to miss. Thanks for reading and let me know if you find it usefull or have anything to add to it.



MTI	Thu May 17, 2007 1:33 am Post #2
Member Posts: 578 Group: Members Member #224 Joined: March 23, 2006	I noticed that you didn't mention removing the A-pillar covers



kentronix	Thu May 17, 2007 7:32 am Post #3
Admin Posts: 16,340 Group: Admin Member #147 Joined: January 20, 2006	Quote: I noticed that you didn't mention removing the A-pillar covers You don't need to. Does it help ?



cra_arc	Thu May 17, 2007 9:27 am Post #4
Member Posts: 6,233 Group: Members Member #4 Joined: November 2, 2005	pinned awaiting update c



hugo190e	Thu May 17, 2007 11:51 am Post #5
Member Posts: 646 Group: Members Member #406 Joined: July 19, 2006	some job kenny..... keep her lit



Burger#11	Thu May 17, 2007 9:00 pm Post #6
Member Posts: 54 Group: Members Member #1,167 Joined: April 14, 2007	Fair play, that is very clear another job i will have to do after removing the car from the rust. P.



Matt	Thu May 17, 2007 9:22 pm Post #7
Administrator - Hawk Eye Posts: 14,126 Group: Admin Member #20 Joined: November 8, 2005	Just a note mate, you forgot the two extra screws that hold the center vents in. One is hidden behind the heated rear screen switch and the other is inside above the left center vent



MICHAEL	Thu May 17, 2007 9:54 pm Post #8
Member Posts: 5,622 Group: Members Member #555 Joined: September 28, 2006	Thanks Kenny, for taking the time to show the procedure for removing the dash. If I ever need to do it , I think I'll give it to someone who knows what they'e doing, I'd make a b*llocks of it for sure. :lol:



kentronix	Thu May 17, 2007 10:42 pm Post #9
Admin Posts: 16,340 Group: Admin Member #147 Joined: January 20, 2006	Matt May 17 2007, 10:22 PM Just a note mate, you forgot the two extra screws that hold the center vents in. One is hidden behind the heated rear screen switch and the other is inside above the left center vent didnt have it in mine for some reason, I will add it in.



jim_e	Thu May 24, 2007 3:48 pm Post #10
Member Posts: 82 Group: Members Member #1,165 Joined: April 13, 2007	You're a star Kentronix! Wonderful! Just what I needed. I'm surprised it only took you a couple of hours. It's at this point I'm asking - why did you do it???? I've got to replace the heater matrix in mine - did you go that far??? And if so - do you have any more photos of that section??? Many thanks Jim_E



kentronix	Thu May 24, 2007 9:36 pm Post #11
Admin Posts: 16,340 Group: Admin Member #147 Joined: January 20, 2006	my dash had some nasty cracks in it. you can see one in the pic of me undoing the speaker grill, it was like that both sides and in the middle. It looks like a huge job but its just a series of small jobs really



andycowman	Thu May 24, 2007 10:13 pm Post #12
Member Posts: 654 Group: Members Member #434 Joined: July 31, 2006	I did the heater matrix a few weeks ago. From what I remember after you remove the dashboard following Kennys guide you need to remove the heater switch units from the front of the heater matrix - I think there are at least two types but both are very simple to remove. One just clips off and the other is held on by 2 small screws. You need to remove the big metal bar that goes from side to side. Three bolts on the passenger side and one on the right. By the steering lock/ignition barrel there are two struts that go up to the base of the windscreen from the big metal bar. These are held on by nut and bolts and need to come off. Then undo the clips that hold the wires to the bar. NOw this is something I can't quite remember but you may need to undo the ignition barrel from aswell. I think theres a loop of metal that tightens it down on to the big metal bar. The matric itself has 4 bolts holding it on the front bulkhead. Two up top are visible and two are down to the sides. Undo them Undo the retaining bolts on the silver pipes that go into to it. They may be stubborn to get out so a bit of gentle wiggling to free them then keep the dead straight as you pull them out worked on mine. The two cables that come from the switch units that control where the air is coming from need to be taken off the matrix as well. There is metal clip about and inch down from where the cable connects onto a rotating arm. Pop the clip off (its slightly tensioned which is how it works) then carefully take the cable off, it goes over the end and is quite tight, Be careful as you can snap the little arm that it controls which adjusts a big flap inside! I did that :s but managed to use parts from the broken one to fix it despite them being a bit different. SOme cunning adaptation was needed!! With that off, the 4 retaining bolts out, pipes removed and the big bad out of the way you should be able to remove the matrix. Mind out that it WILL have water in which will come out of the lower pipe Sorry there are no photos for this one. I just had to work it out as I went in the rain at Neils house and then when I put swapped it in the my 190 had to do the same. When you redo the pipes might be worth putting something like red hermatitie on the join to prevent leaking and corrsion. Andy



Studio-City	Thu May 31, 2007 7:51 pm Post #13
Unregistered	What a great writeup Kenny. Im thinking i might have to do this to replace the heater matrix. Im going to get a second opinion from my mechanic first. But if it is that ill endeavour to do this myself. Andy, was it easy to change the matrix once the dash is out? Do i need to do anything special? What else is worthwhile to replace once the dash is out? cheers guys
Unregistered


andycowman	Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:16 am Post #14
Member Posts: 654 Group: Members Member #434 Joined: July 31, 2006	Once the dash is out yes its pretty easy. Takes a little while to make sure everything is undone so you can remove the big strut bar. Patience is the key!! I remember the cables that control the flaps in the big box that surround the matrix and are clipped on and the little clips can be popped off with a screw driver, they can go a very long way so make sure you catch them!! Its all quite logical, if something isnt coming off then you have missed something. Its possible there are differences between the cars aswell as with the dash so look out for that. Sorry for the delay in answering, i didnt notice the post had been updated and put as a sticky! ps - Remembered something else aswell!! Put a container under the pipes, especially on the passenger side as some coolant can come out. Also when you lift the matrix out it will be easier with two people as you can watch you dont tip it and ewmpty it over yours seats! I did it by myself but had to be careful!



Studio-City	Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:54 am Post #15
Unregistered	thanks Andy, great advice... im thinking of replacing the o rings first. are these easy to replace? thanks in advance!
Unregistered


andycowman	Fri Jun 22, 2007 7:19 am Post #16
Member Posts: 654 Group: Members Member #434 Joined: July 31, 2006	Not done the O rings myself so not sure, Matt will probably know!



Exmoorsuperstar	Wed Jun 27, 2007 10:21 pm Post #17
Newbie Posts: 37 Group: Members Member #1,398 Joined: June 13, 2007	I have just done a matrix on mine tonight & found that you dont need to remove the cross-bar, the heater box lifts out from behind it without any problems. It also saves removing all those flippin cable ties which is a big result. I know one thing, i would rather do a matrix on a 190 having done quite a few other cars ie Pug 306 are horrible as are Nissan Bluebirds.



jim_e	Sat Jul 21, 2007 4:34 pm Post #18
Member Posts: 82 Group: Members Member #1,165 Joined: April 13, 2007	Great Job, Andy & Kenny, Just replaced my heater matrix - many thanks for all the pictures and useful tips. Couple of additions: 1/ There's a plastic bracket on passenger side, that clips round the pipe coming through from the engine compartment. I tried to take a photo but it's too blurred. This needs unclipping, by gently pulling towards you - try prizing it carefully with a flat-bladed screwdriver, before the heater matrix will lift out. 2/ MAJOR Key addition: The water inlet and outlet junctions each have two bolts to secure. Fit and secure the nuts, for these bolts, to the heater matrix itself before putting everything back into the car. A touch of super glue - or something just to ensure these stay put while you locate everything. You bring round the pipes and locate with the new O rings, and then come along with the bolts.... If the nuts aren't already in place angry.gif you have a s... of a job getting them in their seats. And if they fall out, they are very likely to get lost down inside.... gross.gif I can confirm - there's no need to take out the main cross bar to remove the heater matrix itself. I loosened the bolts at either end so there was some movement in it which helped a little. Nice work. Oh that re-assembly was as simple as 'the reverse sequence to removal'! I've lost the sequence for the three vacuum pipes that go to the re-circulating switch. The switch has positions A,B & C, and I have three pipes, Green, Green with a light blue stripe, and Green with a while stripe. But which goes into which hole? I've got the CD Manual, and it gives a wonderful vacuum circuit diagram, but doesn't show me which goes where! Anyone able to tell me which pipe goes to which position? Many Thanks Guys, Jim_E



julian	Mon Dec 3, 2007 10:12 pm Post #19
Member Posts: 2,584 Group: Members Member #831 Joined: January 16, 2007	I posted earlier this evening about removing heater matrix, and here it is all the time :lol: The irony is I used kennys dash removel to do mine, but only copied to the bottom of his thread. Anyway kenny, that was a great help. However I thought i would add this with regard to right heater vent, as removing it might not be necessary. I noticed on the dashboard removal thread that you can get to the speedo cable by removing the right vent, which of course you can if you have small hands, even Lynn couldn't reach the speedo nut through that vent when removed. This vent is a nightmare to remove without breaking the clips, i did manage it though using cut up credit card strips to hold the clips open. There is a better way though, by raising the speedo cable above and across the heater fan you can extract the cluster a couple of inches more. You can gain even more if you pull a bit more speedo cable through the bulkhead panel with the sponge on. Dont pull too hard obviously, and be careful not to pull out the grommett, but a couple more inches are available there too. Of course you have to remove the plastic grille under the wiper motor and screen to get to the cable.



oneninety	Thu Jan 3, 2008 5:26 pm Post #20
Newbie Posts: 38 Group: Members Member #2,080 Joined: December 29, 2007	Can I just add when removing the steering wheel, undo the center nut, and make it slack but don't remove completely. Then pull the wheel towards you an ensure it is loose on the splines before removing the nut from the column and pulling the wheel off. This way you don't end up with a Merc Star indentation in the center of your forehead. Saw this happen to a friend who was removing a steering wheel on a "DROF" at the time, tee hee...



MICHAEL	Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:08 pm Post #21
Member Posts: 5,622 Group: Members Member #555 Joined: September 28, 2006	Thanks Kenny for the "how to do it". I've just put the new Laptimer in the Evo, it was easy. I need to replace a bulb in the heater dial, how do I get at it. :unsure:



charl44	Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:11 pm Post #22
Member Posts: 1,930 Group: Members Member #243 Joined: April 10, 2006	Just pull the knob off, you might need to use pliers wrapped in a cloth. Ian



MICHAEL	Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:14 pm Post #23
Member Posts: 5,622 Group: Members Member #555 Joined: September 28, 2006	charl44 Jan 17 2008, 06:11 PM Just pull the knob off, you might need to use pliers wrapped in a cloth. Ian The knob is lit,it's the circular one. :unsure:



charl44	Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:24 pm Post #24
Member Posts: 1,930 Group: Members Member #243 Joined: April 10, 2006	Ah, right I see, I`ve no idea then :lol: Ian



kentronix	Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:32 pm Post #25
Admin Posts: 16,340 Group: Admin Member #147 Joined: January 20, 2006	you mean the lights around the knob ? If so, when you remove the console but look at the back and there are 2 bulbs which light up the three knob surrounds. They are easy to spot but you need to take the console bit out.



MICHAEL	Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:19 pm Post #26
Member Posts: 5,622 Group: Members Member #555 Joined: September 28, 2006	Is that the one that holds the 3 clocks that I've just put back in?. :unsure:



pentoman	Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:36 pm Post #27
Resident OVP Expert Posts: 2,697 Group: Members Member #11 Joined: November 6, 2005	Good photo guide thumbs up



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