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| A guide to getting to the heater blower; Sorry about a few large pictures. | |
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| Topic Started: Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:29 pm (3,611 Views) | |
| Matt | Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:29 pm Post #1 |
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First off open the bonnet to the full open position. Now pull off the two bulkhead rubber seals on either side and undo the 2x bolts (8mm) that secure the scuttle panel (see pic)![]() Now unscrew the 2x plastic rivit screws (see pic) ![]() Pull away the scuttle panel, upwards and towards the front of the car. ![]() Now you need to remove the wiper motor and arm. Its a good idea to remove the wiper blade it this stage so you can manouver the motor etc around easier. The motor is simply held on by 3x bolts (8mm) situated under the windscreen (see pic) 2x of which are to the left of the wiper arm and 1x to the right. ![]() There is another 1x bolt (10mm) securing the lower bracket of the wiper linkage (see pic), remove this.
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| Matt | Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:40 pm Post #2 |
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Next remove the plastic bracket which is bolted to the middle of the bulkhead, 1x bolt (10mm) (see pic)![]() Now you will be able to pull the wiper system out with some wiggling, until you can gain enough access to unplug the wiper motor multi plug (see pic) ![]() Now pull the whole wiper system out and place it out of the way. You will be able to see the blower motor cover at this stage but first you need to undo the 6x bolts (8mm) that secure the bulkhead panel (see pic) There are 3x bolts each side. ![]() Removing these will enable you to pull the bulkhead section forward slightly* to gain just enough room to get the blower cover off. *(To remove the bulkhead section completely you would need to take of the heater inlet and return hoses which is just a pain and means loosing coolant) |
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| Matt | Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:13 pm Post #3 |
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Now with the bulkhead section moved forward a bit you can undo the 2x bolts (8mm) securing the blower motor cover.![]() With some more wiggling around, the cover will eventually lift up and out. Now you will be able to see the blower motor. ![]() The motor is held into its casing by 3x bolts (7mm) (see pic) ![]() Unscrew these and the motor will pull out. ![]() Unclip the 2x electrical connections to withdraw the motor from the car.
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| pentoman | Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:21 pm Post #4 |
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Awesome, dead handy stuff to have here, nice one Matt! |
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| Matt | Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:24 pm Post #5 |
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Thats ok, I will do a load more how to topics.
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| BIGTOBE2.3-16 | Thu Nov 24, 2005 6:12 pm Post #6 |
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Cheers for that matt, great help. Will be gettin up super early 2morrow to do it! I love this site, just post your problem and generally someone knows the answer! Tobes. |
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| stacy82 | Thu Nov 24, 2005 8:09 pm Post #7 |
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cheers bud, il hav 2 do mine soon, better than the haynes manual |
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| merc190uk | Thu Nov 24, 2005 8:44 pm Post #8 |
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Steve
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we now have www.papa.com and now www.matt@haynes.com lol |
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| dave_irl | Thu Nov 24, 2005 8:50 pm Post #9 |
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I love offset.
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Excellent pics and lovin the surgical gloves too :lol: Very precision style! Brilliant work Matt nice one
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| Matt | Thu Nov 24, 2005 10:42 pm Post #10 |
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Ha ha yep any tech guides needed, just ask.
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| Matt | Thu Nov 24, 2005 10:48 pm Post #11 |
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All proper mechanics wear them , saves taking ages after washing all the grease off
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| big al merc | Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:34 pm Post #12 |
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i have been wearing them for about 6 years now when working on cars ! |
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| stwat | Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:53 pm Post #13 |
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I have also been wearing them for years to help keep me clean whilst carrying out my most favorite pastime.................................. I never thought about useing them for working on the car before though! badjoke.gif Stu |
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| cra_arc | Thu Dec 29, 2005 10:31 am Post #14 |
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ooh er ........... which is :lol: :lol: :lol: |
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| 190neil | Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:25 pm Post #15 |
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Matt, Thanks so much for putting this idiot proof guide up. It allowed me, a VERY average mechanic, to change the blower motor today in a mere 3 hours, including taking a blower from a donor car. Had to remove the undertray to retrieve a dropped 10 mm socket so that took a while. Only 1 cut that drew blood & everything works! Have you got a guide on making a sunroof tilt? |
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| shrekky | Mon Nov 27, 2006 4:16 pm Post #16 |
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well he drives a golf ,so it has to involve sheep :lol: :lol: :lol:
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| stwat | Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:07 pm Post #17 |
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Good guess mate!!! Well i am a yorkshireman with thousands of the things out in the sticks just waiting for some fun late at night :ph43r: They know they love it Stu |
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| Matt | Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:20 pm Post #18 |
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Glad you found it help full Neil What do you mean by make the sunroof tilt? If its a slide only roof, it wont tilt. |
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| 190neil | Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:31 am Post #19 |
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It's a tilt & slide roof but it only slides. I can hear it whirring away trying to tilt up at the back but nothing happens. Any ideas? I have a complete working s/r cartridge in my spares car (in the wrong colour). |
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| Matt | Sat Dec 2, 2006 12:23 pm Post #20 |
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I assume the switch works ok? The only other thing to check is the cable. Where it enters the motor and also where it attaches to the sunroof, but that involves removing the headlining etc etc. |
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| 190neil | Sat Dec 2, 2006 1:10 pm Post #21 |
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It had a new cable fitted when the indy I used tried to fix it. It was not working at all then. He got it to slide but said complicated stuff, dealership or learn to live without tilt. Switch is fine. Not impressed TBH. Pontoneer from this & other MB forums posted this over on http://www.mercedes-benz-club.co.uk "As for the sunroof - it could be one of two things . 1) The easy one , it could just be the microswitches which determine the limit of how far the roof goes ; tilt is effectively sliding forward beyond the 'closed' position - it may just be set wrongly . The guys in the dealerships can usually reset these things in seconds with a special tool - otherwise , you can fiddle about using trial and error - there's a little wheel attached to the motor unit in the boot - pull this out to disengage and rotate - with each full rotation you should just feel it go past the microswitches . This alters the closed position , try a small adjustment first , noting how far you moved it and what difference it makes to where the roof stops when you go to close it . If that dosen't work then it may be a mechanical problem in the roof - most likely one of the lift up arms . If one of your parts cars has a sunroof , you're in luck . Slide the roof back six inches or so then pull down on the front edge of the trim panel on the underside of the sliding roof panel - it is just held by a few 'poppers' (they can be quite tight if they have never been out before) - once you have the front edge down , hold onto the trim panel and slide the roof all the way back , the trim can then be lifted forwards and up out through the roof opening . With the trim out of the way you can run the roof back and forwards and observe the operation of the mechanism - it really isn't all that complicated - anything broken should be fairly obvious and if you have another car with a spare roof you can remove the parts from it and swap them over ." |
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| pentoman | Fri Feb 23, 2007 4:35 pm Post #22 |
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Has anyone seen that thread that describe how to take the bottom of the wiper apart so you can get at the bit that makes the wiper go up and down into the corners? It was a good thread and that's the only bit I haven't lubricated on my car. Also my wiper slows down at these points so I figure it would do no harm. Russell |
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| Marv | Sun Jun 24, 2007 3:43 pm Post #23 |
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Cheers for the guide, Did mine, on Thursdays. Way easyer than what it says in the haynes. Though some bits were tricky, took abit of wrigling to get some bits out. took off the wiper motor and arm again yesterday for painting and found it easy 2nd time around. Gave the heater that I took out to the oldman and he's got it working again, so if this one messes up i got a spare atleast. Thanks. |
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| fryit | Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:00 pm Post #24 |
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THANKS for the tutorial i went to the scrappy and got a blower motor for Ģ25 as i am a noobie with cars i was going to get my brother to help me but decided to give it a go and thanks to the great guide it took me 2hours and also gave confidence to do more .So a big thank you are in order. THANK YOU |
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| Lewis 190E 2.5 16 | Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:41 am Post #25 |
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And if you dont have single heater blower motor: There are several clips located around the cover, unclip these and pull the cover off, here you will be able to see the dual fan heater blower... ![]() Now unclip the bracket holding the motor in place: Now the motor can be removed, unclip the power connections... ![]() Now the motor is out, same for putting back in... ![]() |
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| Fearn | Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:42 am Post #26 |
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Could someone tell me where the heater blower gets its heat from??? is it from the engine coolant??? Mine stopped blowing hot air and im wondering if maybe a pipe is blocked. |
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| kentronix | Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:00 am Post #27 |
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yes, its from coolant, there is a heater matrix hidden behind the dash. The hot/cold knobs on your dash control the flow through theh matrix by vaccum so if there is a problem with your vacuum lines to these knobs then it will effect your heat. If your sure you have plenty of water in your system then the next thing to check is the vacuum lines (in my opinion). |
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| Fearn | Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:11 am Post #28 |
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Ok could you tell me how to find the vacuum lines please. Someone said you know how to back flush the matrix if that could help?? thanks |
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| Russell | Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:41 pm Post #29 |
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Can now officially play at being Victor Maitland at the weekends
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This has been awesome, thank you! Heat again and a blower that doesent scream, then Stop, then steamed up windows....BLISS!! Thank You! |
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| kentronix | Tue Nov 25, 2008 5:56 pm Post #30 |
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A backfplush could help, I think I pm'd you the link ? If not its in the list of tutorials pinned in the general technical bit. The vacuum lines go from the back of the knobs through the dash/bulkhead and appear roughly near the fusebox in the engine bay. You can recognise them because there are 2 of them and they have valves on them. To get to the dash end you need to remove the centre console and you will see them going to the back of the rotary heat switches. If neither side of the car works then its less likely to be vacuum as they run off separate lines. At the risk of talking down I just want to double check, your talking about the windscreen and side vents ? The middle vents on the 190 always blow cold. Do all your tests on the outer or window vents. Edited by kentronix, Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:22 pm.
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| bez_merldo | Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:56 pm Post #31 |
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hello, just a quickkie, has anyone got an idea on my little problem....my side vents blow hot air and my centre two blow permant cold air?? thanks |
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| Matt | Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:59 pm Post #32 |
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Errrrrrr............Are you being serious? |
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| jeremy | Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:02 pm Post #33 |
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Easy , now. The centre vents ONLY blow cold air. The side vents blow cold only when the heater is set to cold. It's that warm feet, cold face type of heating. Jeremy
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| Rich27 | Sat Apr 18, 2009 10:46 am Post #34 |
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If it has tits or an engine it will be trouble
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I have just taken mine out to clean up and lubricate as it was squeaking. Thanks for the great write up Matt. |
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| RichardCC | Sun May 31, 2009 5:16 pm Post #35 |
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Hi Guys, My fan stopped working a few weeks ago, in that it would only go when I put it to full speed. following this threads guide, (Thanks Matt) I took the motor out yesterday, motor was solid and would not move. Decided to give it a good soaking in WD40, left it ten minutes and it turned quite easily, repeated this 3 times and then applied 12v and it works well. Put everything back, on ignition and again it would only work on full. A good look through the wiring diagrams and this shows current passing through a series of resistors for each of the positions. I guess, well am fairly certain that I have two or three resistors that have gone. Does anyone know how I get to the bit that holds the resistors, please don't tell me I have to take the motor out again. Or worse still the bloody dashboard, as I've only just changed this for a nice one from UKMerctechie, Thanks Richard |
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| RichardCC | Tue Jun 2, 2009 10:42 am Post #36 |
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Hi Guys, Update, the resistor pack is on the bulkhead behind the battery, so no problem to get at. Got a replacement from Andy (UKMerctechie), thanks Andy. That sorted half the problem, and have now got the bit from Andy that the dashboard control arm uses to regulated the power (Off, 1, 2 and 3). When I've fitted it I'll report back, Cheers Richard |
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| m4drx | Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:09 pm Post #37 |
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hi, how do you know if you have two blowers or not? mine is a D reg 2.6 manual thanks |
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| Rich27 | Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:32 pm Post #38 |
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If it has tits or an engine it will be trouble
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If you have one blower you will only have one Blower power slider. Two blowers two sliders, one for you and the other for your passenger. |
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| balamb37 | Mon Jul 20, 2009 6:39 pm Post #39 |
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I believe the twin blower is only fitted to cars that have 'Air-Con' |
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| Henger | Mon Jul 20, 2009 8:10 pm Post #40 |
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Itīs like balamb37 says, only cars with Air -con have the twin blowers! The twin blower system is easyer/faster to change than the normal blower, but the cost more expensive if you have to buy it. |
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, saves taking ages after washing all the grease off











8:11 AM Nov 26