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Battle System; battle system for HengLong
Topic Started: Jul 20 2006, 04:44 AM (307 Views)
oztruck
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:idea: Has anyone tried to put a Tamiya battle system into a HL 1/16 Tank, or is there anything like it that can be used? :drool2:
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outcastrc
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To make the Tamiya system work you would have to replace all of the electronics. Extremely expensive.

A guy on the net makes a Tamiya compatible system that would work but its not cheap either. (I am at work so I don't have the link right now)

I have done some research into IR gun systems that people make and I think a simple system could be made. Just need someone with the knowledge to whip something up and then be willing to share it rather then sell it.
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outcastrc
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Found it!

http://pages.cthome.net/chioc/
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oztruck
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Thanks for the help. :nice: His gear looks good, but as he said it is not finnished in testing and pricing yet. :( What are some thoughts on Heng Long doing something as an upgrade to there units :drool2:
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outcastrc
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I want both systems. I would think that you could very easily replace the firing switch to a tree way switch. So you'd have BB / off / IR

If HL does a IR I would imagine they wouldn't offer both in the same tank which would be a travesty. Wouldn't it be nice if they offered an upgrade kit to mount a IR battle system in the tanks!

One of these days we'll find something that we can make into a battle system. It doesn't need to be fancy... Or maybe that guy will eventually lower his price and sell more of them. I love what he's done I just think his price needs to be cut in half before I would be interested.
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oztruck
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The unit that he has for static guns etc would work in the H.L. tanks I think. The idea of a 3way switch is brilliant :nice: and with a relay to the battery to cut power after the set number of hits, then you have got the best of both worlds. Bring it on :woohoo:
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Supreme Reign
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I'm impressed by that guy's dedication and creativity. But if you decide to go with Tamiya's Battle System, Outcast is right. You will need to use Tamiya's DMD unit and the multifunction unit. These are much cheaper when bought as a kit. In otherwords, it's cheaper to just buy the Tamiya Tank kit, because you will have the elctronics, plus the tank.
DestinyPosted ImageYou cannot destroy my destiny!
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oztruck
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:huh: You dont have to be the best tank to win. Cost, ease of repair, and not forgetting numbers, can and will win out in the long run. :rolleyes: Tamiya makes a great product, there stuff looks great and works alright to, but I for one am not happy about paying over $1600Aus for a tank with a tower with lights on its roof :thumbdown:
I would still like a system that if someone could make one as an upgrade for 1:16 scale tanks to be both IR and BB. Maybe a system with 5 hit sensors, 1 at the rear of the tank which only takes 1 hit to take out the tank. 1 each side that would when hit stop that sides track working and then with another hit would take it out. Another sensor on the front of the tank that needs 4 or 5 hits and the last sensor could be on the turrent ,also requiring 4 or 5 hits to take it out.
The sensors for the front and back could replace the head and tail lights, on the sides they could be placed in the hull below the mud guards ,on the turrent, under the comanders hat? :blink:
I just wish I was good with that sort of thing
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outcastrc
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That would be sweet. And a system like that would be better then Tamiyas wouldn't it?
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swathdiver
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Anyone interested in paintballs? I'm still working on the HL guns to make them shoot longer ranges, my intent is to play capture the flag.

Two teams of 3-5 tanks each firing paintballs at each other. All tanks equipped with wireless camera that players must drive and fight their tanks through, no standing over the battlefield. I've identified another manufacturer that makes crystals that work in the HL tanks, adding 3 more, so we can run 7 at a time. I'd like ten!

One hit on the sides or rear your dead, two hits on the front for a kill.

Flag will be looped so the main gun barrel can snatch it up.

Have to identify camera manufacturer that publishes how many frequencies are available. Right now I'm testing infrared camera that can see in the dark.

Right now my gun can break a paintball at about 12-13 feet every time. Goal is 15-20 feet using parts that are available and cost effective so everyone across the continents can get theirs to do the same.
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outcastrc
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Thats a great idea. I always wanted to make 2 tanks that needed 2 TV systems each. One driver and one shooter. Since the driver can only see forward it would be the shooters responsibilty to watch the area, direct and take out the target. Course I have never contimplated it due to the costs involved.

Evolving the idea you could increase the team size to more tanks. and have all the same players on one radio channel so the can co-ordinate...
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swathdiver
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I thought about two cameras, one is practical. You'll have to practice and develop coordination/situational awareness or you'll drive into things that'll get you stuck!

As for radios, I simplified that by having each team sitting at their own table with their tvs and transmitters sitting on top.

The only person with a direct view of the battlefield is the referee wearing safety glasses.

Each player will have a map of the battlefield with a grid overlay so in the event they split up, they'll know where their teamates are to coordinate movements, etc.
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outcastrc
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What I like best about this idea is that you could actually sneak up on a tank and they wouldn't have a clue until it was too late.

Heck 2 tanks could hit each other and not know it until they hit. Thats the cool part of cameras. You only see what you can see. Everything else doesn't exist.

The other cool thing is if the paintball doesn't break your safe to keep running. Even if they only break at short distance you could just have urban warfare. Then its more maze like, less area to open fire. And when you do it should be shorter distance.
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swathdiver
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I don't know the range of the Tamiya or Vs battle systems, I figure anywhere from 15-20 feet is fine. There's a good chance you won't even know you're hit, especially if you take a hit opposite where the camera is pointing, that's why we need the refereee.

I'm excited about it, I hope to have the range and process done by this weekend. Then I'll focus on the cameras.
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oztruck
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:nice: The idea of the cameras is great, I saw avery small camera (wireless) the other day[url=www.rcuniverse.com/buynow/keywordclick.cfm] looks good.
The paint ball thing I dont know about. The only type I have seem in Australia is the type they use for "SKERMISH" and they are large.
I have just finnished putting a lazer pointer into my M26, :nice: It makes it VERY easy to aim, just put the Red Dot on what you want to hit allow for distance and fire :vibrate: "GOT YA"
The lazer pointer I got from a local electrical supply store for $12Aus and when I told the salesman what I wanted it for he just smiled, asked me what voltage the tank is. He then measured the load on the lazer with a multimeater ,did some maths and sold me 10cents worth of resistors. and told me how to use them in line with the lazer. :blink:
Home I went, pulled the M26 apart again, removed the compleate gun ass then I removed the red led from where the coax machine gun should be. I then fixed a piece of brass tube to the end of the lazer pointer and placed the tube in the hole left by the led.
I then mounted the gun ass in a vice, placed a piece of paper about 10feet away from it. I then fired about 15 BB's at the piece of paper, mounted he lazer pointer with a "HOT GLUE GUN" so that the red dot was in the middle of the spread of hits EZY :nice:
It works fine, first hit most of the time.There is a couple of things that I am not happy about yet. I had to change the wiring because the only time you can use the lazer is when you are trying to fire, because it works off the power for the air soft gun, when you are firing the lazer lights up. what I have done at the moment is to wire it up so I can have "lazer NO gun or lazer WITH gun". Better but not good enough yet. :thumbdown:
What I plan on doing is wiring it up to the machine gun on a S&S unit, that way I can aim without the main gun shooting before I am ready, :drool2:
It should be easy, but I think I will have to go to the electrical shop and ask the helpfull salesman what resister I need :pray:
If you devide the price of a HengLong Tank by the many hours of play and the ease of changing things to the way you want it is a VERY VERY VERY good investment :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
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swathdiver
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Yes, the bang for the buck cannot be beat!

I like the idea of the laser and see the technical challenge to wire it up as you like. You really don't want it on all the time, something like a momentary switch on the board to trigger it. You do have a couple of seconds to check your aim while the gun winds up before it actually fires.
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outcastrc
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If you add a capacitor in the loop you might be able to just trigger the main gun, which lights up the lazer but doesn't fire and the cap will let the lazer stay on for a bit after. Might give you time to aim...
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bullyhys
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outcastrc
Jul 20 2006, 05:59 AM

Greeting Gents,

As of this moment I have one of Tankhobby's combat circuits installed in a electronically gutted HL non S+S Tiger1. (Turret 931)

The installation is about 90-95% completed an tested. :woohoo: The Tiger1 has no HL electronics installed. I had to completely rebuild the electronics (Long Story). The track drives are controlled by a dual ESC and a 4ch radio.
I have since added a single ESC to control the turret motor. The gun recoils via a recoil motor from another Toy Tank
I then have added the combat circuit which controls the gun recoil and the gun fire sound which is provided from the circuit board donated from a 1:18 Panz IV which had donated parts for other projects. The bonus is the the Tiger also now has Engine start and run sounds. :yahoo:

So far all testing has gone very well. The remaining items to install is the kill relay which the Tiger is already wired for and the HIT sound unit which I haven't had time to install yet. I hope to be able to have it ready for the clubs next battle.

Regards,
bullyhys
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swathdiver
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Very creative indeed! Have you considered what you'd have to do if one of those boards were to fail?
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bullyhys
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swathdiver
Aug 5 2006, 05:47 AM
Very creative indeed! Have you considered what you'd have to do if one of those boards were to fail?

swathdiver

Yes actually I have given a great deal of thought and my setup allows for modifications and or replacement of all boards and componets.

An example would be that I just happen to have another electronics board from my second Panz IV that I installed a 27mhz Tamiya T2000 DMD unit for running purposes.

As for the combat circuit the Tankhobby's quality and workmanship are better than most equipment you can buy anywhere.

And Tankhobby has answered all of my questions to date and has been very helpiful and has even tested some of my stupid ideas for adding additional LEDs and such. That says very good product support in my book.

Hope this helps.

bullyhys
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oztruck
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Let us know how well it works, and cost of conversion. :idea: Do you think the battle system could be wired into a H&L S&S system? .As mentioned before I wonder if it could be wired into the switch or replacement switch so it could be "lazer" or "BB" or Both :rolleyes:
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bullyhys
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oztruck
Aug 5 2006, 07:23 PM
Let us know how well it works, and cost of conversion. :idea: Do you think the battle system could be wired into a H&L S&S system? .As mentioned before I wonder if it could be wired into the switch or replacement switch so it could be "lazer" or "BB" or Both :rolleyes:

Oztruck,

I think it is possible and so I plan to find out. :nice:

Based on what I've learned so far, it shouldn't be too great a hassel.

I've completed a T34 to HL S+S upgrade so at least I have a starting point. The only real problem I think will be setting up the disable circuit(relay) Going to need a double pole relay with a 5-7volt coil and able to carry around 10amps at the contacts.(motors)

Anyway that my thought.

bullyhys
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WhiteWolf McBride
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Quote:
 

An example would be that I just happen to have another electronics board from my second Panz IV that I installed a 27mhz Tamiya T2000 DMD unit for running purposes.


Thats Hi IQ's T2000 unit, and has nothing to do with Tamiya. Many of us have tried to ask the seller about FM units and ones on 75 MHz, the seller makes NO reply. A few have had units go bust, and got NO warranty. Buy at your own risk.

Easier and safer to buy a GWS 4ch Rx at $33 and then two ESC's.

JMHP (Just My Honest Opinion)
WhiteWolf McBride

CEO, TaskForce Technologies Inc.
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bullyhys
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WhiteWolf McBride
Aug 6 2006, 08:39 AM
Quote:
 

An example would be that I just happen to have another electronics board from my second Panz IV that I installed a 27mhz Tamiya T2000 DMD unit for running purposes.


Thats Hi IQ's T2000 unit, and has nothing to do with Tamiya. Many of us have tried to ask the seller about FM units and ones on 75 MHz, the seller makes NO reply. A few have had units go bust, and got NO warranty. Buy at your own risk.

Easier and safer to buy a GWS 4ch Rx at $33 and then two ESC's.

JMHP (Just My Honest Opinion)

Yeah well,

I already had bought one before I found out.

So mine is installed in a 1:18 Panz IV. At present I use as a driver.

If it goes toast I chalk it up to lessons learned, I admit it's not that good, a 75mhz radio and a Dual ESC like an ANT150 would deffinitly be better.

It will most likley end up in the junk box before long. :rolleyes:

bullyhys
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